Another time; another place: drinks at Felix

I don't know exactly why, but I feel like I'm on Mad Men when I'm at Felix. Perhaps it's the feeling of being in another time or place; or the many suits loudly chatting post work (though most are bankers rather than advertising execs, I think); or perhaps the classic cocktails.

Vesper cocktail at Felix, Ash Street, Sydney

I must admit that this was my first ever Vesper; a cocktail apparently made famous by none other than 007. Being a relatively new fan of martinis (very dry), this twist on the martini involves both Plymouth gin and Belvedere vodka, shaken with Lillet Blanc instead of vermouth and garnished with a lemon peel.

It's hard not to feel oh-so-sophisticated with this Vesper in hand (loved the glass detail too) though I think I'll need me a few more to really start appreciating it.

Felix Bloody Mary

Another classic done Felix style, the Bloody Mary looks pretty awesome on arrival. The salt flakes make for an impressive rim for the drink of celery-infused Belvedere vodka and a secretive "Felix Smokey Mary Mix", though I think some kind of smokey Tabasco sauce may be at play (last time, there were Tabasco sauce bottles on every dining table).

The big twist had to be the float of Galway Pipe Port, which I didn't really notice when it was mixed through, especially when the umami hit from the tomato juice is always a frontrunner on the palate.

Ocean trout terrine with cornichons

To nibble while imbibing, there isn't a bar menu as such, but we make do with the more nibbley types from the normal Felix dinner menu. A jellied ocean trout terrine is one of the more share friendly, served with a pile of snow pea sprouts, cornichons and a few of slices of toasted sourdough.

One bite of the terrine was all that was needed to have me raving: an ethereal, dill heavy slice with ocean trout flaked throughout. The balance of flavours was so spot on, it was pretty sad when I scooped up the last bit with my bread - though at least I know where to get more.

Cheese plate

The cheese plate came sadly with little explanation other than "a soft French cheese, a semi-soft sheep's Italian cheese, and a French blue cheese". The plate of cheeses alternated with dried muscatels, a dried date and a jammy paste of figs (or apricot - I forget).

There was also plenty of lavosh crackers and a chewy, raisin bread to accompany the cheeses which were polished off with ease between three-and-a-half of us. My favourite was the blue, surprisingly, since a soft, white rind is usually my preference.

The noise at the bar subsided as the suits gradually went home, but the gorgeous ambience of Felix remained. It seems just the right time and right place for this French incarnation to hit Ash Street for our drinking pleasure, and Mad Men or not, I'm glad it's here.

Baileys Hazelnut chocolate truffles - a ball of fun

I used to have a ‘no drinking on Mondays’ rule that was mostly enforced for my liver’s welfare. The rule isn’t really necessary anymore but I’m not sure how alcohol in food would have been assessed by the rule.

On the one hand, the Burgandy in a boeuf bourgignon or the Pinot Grigio in a risotto will more often than not have the alcohol cooked out of the food given its lower-than-water boiling point of about 78 degrees Celcius; thus evaporating by the time you bring whatever stock to the boil.

On the other hand, there are the edibles with alcohol that isn’t cooked out. Hello, Baileys Hazelnut chocolate truffles.

Baileys Hazelnut chocolate truffles

Earlier this year, Baileys launched its latest flavour – hazelnut – joining the existing stable of mint chocolate, crème caramel and coffee flavours.

Baileys Irish Cream Hazelnut Flavour
Image courtesy of Porter Novelli

The hazelnut flavour is blended with the original Baileys ingredients of Irish whiskey and indeed, milk from Irish cows for a creamy liqueur of 17% alcohol content by volume.

According to Baileys, preservatives are not required as the alcohol preserves the cream, but that said, an opened bottle shouldn't be kept too long (this from personal experience).

Mise en place for Baileys Hazelnut chocolate truffles

While I could have just sipped the entire 1L bottle on ice (not in one go!), a recipe on the Baileys website had me intrigued enough to try my hand at truffles.

It was my first attempt as I’d heard stories about the fiddly, messy nature of making truffles – and they weren’t wrong.

‘Balls’ of chocolate ganache

The ingredients list reads like a heart attack on paper, but is simple enough. The ganache involves melting dark chocolate (recipe calls for chocolate of 66% cocoa solids) with butter, then whisking in thickened (double) cream and the Baileys – or in my case, Baileys Hazelnut.

Do something for about two hours while the ganache sets (tip: shallower containers seem to expedite this step); or do as I did – Google how to use a melon baller. This utensil has a little more technique to it than, say, an ice cream scoop, and as I found out, is not really designed for the soft stickiness of chocolate ganache as opposed to firmer, smoother melons and fruits.

Nonetheless, it’s apparently appropriate for at least portioning out consistent sized ganache balls, though I haven’t a clue as to how one is supposed to remove the ball from the baller. I resorted to a toothpick with an end result that was probably closer to a cube than a sphere.

Cocoa-dusted Baileys Hazelnut chocolate truffles

These went back in the fridge, but not before a little delicate shaping (with gloves, unless you want chocolate all over your hands) for a little while longer.

Being a little rushed for time, I skipped the chocolate dip step, which would have added a nice crisp shell of chocolate to the ganache ball as well as protecting it from heat or pressure a little better.

Mine went straight into the cocoa for a roll and came out looking not nearly as bad as I’d anticipated (baker’s trick: dust everything in cocoa or icing powder to hide the flaws). Back in the fridge until serving time, the truffles get a bit of a chance to firm up.

And the painstaking, fiddly end result? Not half bad. Dark chocolate is a must as it has adequate sweetness and a delightful slight bitterness to counteract the boozy hit of Baileys (of which the hazelnut flavour is sadly minimal), while the texture just melts in the mouth. I found the melon ball size perhaps a little on the large side, but can’t think of a good alternative.

I made these on a Saturday afternoon, but would say that they’re appropriate for any Monday – rule or not.

Food, booze and shoes received a sample of Baileys Irish Cream Hazelnut Flavour with thanks to Porter Novelli.

Barrio Chino: A Mexican in Chinatown

I'd been hanging for a revisit to Barrio Chino (Spanish for Chinatown) ever since their launch party in August. Aside from Guzman Y Gomez, this was really my first taste of more authentic Mexican fare, albeit with some fusion; aptly located a few doors down from World Bar.

Gone are the days of corn chips covered thickly in melted cheese and sour cream - save that for a desperate pantry/fridge searching moment. Give me fresh, zingy flavours not laden with dairy and while we're at it, give me some decent tequila that doesn't remind me of my teenage days.

Tommy's Margarita pitcher from Barrio Chino, Bayswater Road, Kings Cross

Tommy's Margarita is the only one served by the jug, so it's the obvious choice for a group. And having met the creator of Tommy's Margarita last month makes it doubly awesome.

The jug, the first of many, comes with a wooden spoon to stop the ice coming out when pouring, and we're provided with half salt rimmed glases also filled with ice.

The margarita mix of El Jimador tequila, lime and agave syrup is fairly classic with with an excellent balance of sweet, sour, salt and that trademark tequila kick.

Ceviche with corn chips

Ordering food at Barrio Chino is super easy; one of everything would be ideal but if you've got a protein in mind, the tacos pretty much sort themselves out.

With the food comes a trio of chilli condiment sauces: one very mild and more lime than chilli; another spicier but manageable; and one that temporarily burns upon touch but doesn't last.

We started with the ceviche of white fish from the botanas snacks section of the menu, cooked and marinated in lime juice.

The Chinese style bowl must have been a play on the name, but the jumble of Spanish onion, avocado, coriander and the occasional bit of juicy mango was just good fun, especially with the house made corn chips. They're nothing like supermarket packet ones and have a real corn flavour about them.

Black bean taco

One of various tacos through the night, the vegetarian black bean taco is served with said protein, a grated white cheese, coriander and a mild red sauce.

All the tacos are served on soft, double layers of corn flour tacos, which essentially means two tacos per serve (with the amount of topping one one serve, you wouldn't be able to fold up the taco to eat).

One I didn't try at the launch and that was simply fabulous was the baja fish; a lightly battered finger of fish served with finely shredded raw cabbage and a creamy lime sauce. Simple but so very satisfying.

Roast corn tostada

But I think the real stars of Barrio Chino are their tostada offerings in the snacks menu. It's surprising, and a little embarrassing, that I can eat so many of these but they have it all: fresh ingredients; winning flavour combinations; varied texture and complete deliciousness.

The roasted corn version features corn kernels and avocado dressed in a mild chipotle mayonnaise, and takes only a few mouthfuls to crunch and devour the sweet and tart flavours.

Tuna tostada

The tuna tostada features a slice of raw tuna, sashimi style, with equally colourful dabs of avocado and chipotle mayonnaise. Another winning combination, though I think the tuna would benefit from being diced, to make it easier to eat it bites.

Pulled pork tostada

Last but not least, the pulled pork tostada is a little heavier than the first two, laden with saucy shreds of tender pork and juliennes of the jicama root vegetable. This is perfect food for sharing, with bottles of condiments flying all over the table with almost each bite.

Chicken Borracho torta

For the bigger appetites, the small-ish tacos may not look quite enough while 10 of them might hit the back pocket a little too hard. There are a couple of more filling options served on soft burger buns, like the chicken borracho.

The soft roll is filled with braised and pulled chicken, avocado, iceberg lettuce and chipotle sauce. While it's tasty, it has nothing on the flavour-packed tostadas and tacos - and sadly no amount of condiments will change that.

The back dining area in Barrio Chino is filled with stimulants such as the beautiful crowds, colourful decorations, loud music and open kitchen. The booths in the front are perfect for pre or post dinner drinking, while it looks hard to nab a seat at the long bar where all the margarita and tequila action happens.

Chinatown or not, I hope this fresh and zingy style of Mexican cuisine is here to stay because BarrioChino is just darn good.