Japan times - part 1: Shinjuku, Tokyo

I recently spent two-and-a-half weeks in Japan, eating and drinking my way through a destination I've wanted to visit for more than a decade. This is the first of several posts of food, booze and sights in Japan.

Streets of Shinjuku by night, Tokyo, Japan

Airfare sale tickets brought us to Tokyo's Narita International Airport before a luggage-laden train - with station changeover - to Shinjuku where we were based for the majority of our time spent in Japan's capital city.

I was priveleged to all the stereotypes straightaway, within hours of arriving: face masks on the train; drinks vending machines everywhere; a drunken salaryman swaying/dancing against a street pole. There was no doubt that I was in Japan.

Streets of Shinjuku by day, Tokyo, Japan

Japan’s capital city boasts more “city centres” than you can poke a chopstick at – you could think of the ‘wards’ as suburbs within the great, heaving mass that is Tokyo. More than 13 million people call Tokyo home – more than half the total Australian population – spread across the various wards of Tokyo.

Shinjuku is home to the world’s busiest train station and quite the shopping and entertainment centre too. We spent many an hour walking the streets of Shinjuku; discovering little back streets and eateries, chain stores and boutiques, and most fun – department stores and their food-filled basements called depa-chika.

Sashimi selection from Isetan department store, Shinjuku

I could, and did, spend hours in a depa-chika, especially that of department store Isetan in Shinjuku; just wandering slowly between the offerings, admiring, sampling and wondering which and how much of the gorgeously presented food could actually make the trip home. (Unfortunately, photography isn't allowed in the depa-chika.

Eating depa-chika sashimi on the streets of Shinjuku

A purchase from any of the branded ‘stalls’ (for lack of better word) in the department store entails serious and exacting packaging; even if you were going to eat it straightaway. Which wouldn’t be the case though, as for locals the extravagant fare sold at a depa-chika is usually intended as an omiyage gift.

A fruit stall near Shinjuku station (not depa-chika and a lot cheaper)

In the fresh produce section lively displays of fish, meat, fruit and vegetables look almost artificial in their perfection, but it’s the gift fruit section that astounds.

It wasn't just the picture-perfect musk melons – with evenly patterned skins and harmoniously angled stalks – more so the eye-watering price tags that could be 10,000 yen for a single melon. 

There were also cherries and mangoes sold in this fashion and I had to wonder about Japanese society and who was really buying these painfully overpriced fruits.

Children involved in a Shinto festival

Even in a buzzing, modern city, the signs of faith and tradition are abounds with many a Shinto shrine to be found in the back streets of a city centre. 

While in Shinjuku we came across various parades for a Shinto festival of some sort with lots of children and their parents actively involved.

Schoolgirls pray at the  Hanazono Jinja Shrine, Shinjuku

The Hanazono Jinja Shrine was surprisingly close to where we were staying but also proximal to Kabukicho - Shinjuku's red light district.

One particular weekend saw a festival full of stalls and people, young and old, making offerings and prayers at the Shinto shrine.

Ayu no shio-yaki - salt grilled sweetfish at Hanazono Jinja Shrine, Shinjuku

There was a great variety of food among the stalls: takoyaki, okonomiyaki, yaki soba and this pictured above - a most impressive display of ayu sweetfish, slowly roasting whilst retaining a look of a swimming fish.

Choco-banana

We also splashed out on an irresistable choco-banana; a chocolate and sprinkle covered banana on a skewer that's a sure-fire way to get kids to eat fruit.

Side streets in Shinjuku Ni-chome

I'm not even going to attempt to explain the complex address system of Japan. While many streets appear to have street names and all, these aren't taken into account for addresses, which is perplexing to say the least. 

Tsukemen restaurant in Shinjuku

On one of our walks around some of the quieter streets near our hotel, we struck gold when hungry for lunch we were game enough to enter an eatery that was empty, not even sure if they were open for business.

Their enthusiastic welcome and immediate service of iced water and English menus quickly affirmed that we would be having our very first tsukemen dipping ramen experience.

Spicy tsukemen

It's essentially ramen with the two main components – ramen noodles and soup – served separately. 

The briefly cooked noodles are served cool, maintaining the all-important texture of the noodles while the soup – available in a range of flavours – is noticeably more intense in thick flavour than normal ramen and maintains a high heat throughout most of the meal.

Tsukemen eaters grab some noodles with their chopsticks and dip them into the soup, both heating and flavouring the mouthful of noodles, and then with a requisite slurp (of which I am yet to master) bring them up into the mouth.

Mild-flavoured tsukeme

At the end when there are no noodles left and a big bowl of soup remains, we eventually worked out that you top up the hearty bowl of soup with what looks like plain broth, thinning out the strong flavours and reheating the soup ready for consumption of a by-product second course.

As we dried our bowls of soup, a large group of students filled the restaurant chairs for a late lunch. I'm told tsukemen is becoming increasingly popular in Tokyo and in warmer weather, I can certainly see the appeal over a steaming bowl of ramen.

That's the other thing I've noticed about lunching in Japan - there doesn't seem to be a set time like the 12–2pm rush I imagine most Sydney lunch venues contend with. During several late lunches, we were joined with various ones or twos having their late lunches, without concern about the time or dining alone.

Back streets of Shinjuku 

Our first drinking venue was a British styled alehouse with a shelf full of whisky and a number of beers on tap - what can I say, we were desperately thirsty after an entire day of walking.

Whisky and soda highball (hai-booru) and snacks at 82 Alehouse, Shinjuku

Japanese females all seem to drink beer and/or whisky highballs. I suppose there isn't yet a very developed wine culture but it's still a refreshing change from girly white-spirit concoctions.

After a UK craft beer on tap (!), Brew Dog Punk India Pale Ale, we treated ourselves to a fried pasta snack seasoned with the childhood flavours of Mamee Noodles. Drinking snack heaven.

Appetiser at Pukunotori, Shinjuku Go-chome

Speaking of drinking and snacks, we probably didn't go to as many izakaya style restaurants as I anticipated. There just ended up being too many places that specialised in something delicious that attracted our attention rather.

One venue we did have izakaya style eats also provided one of my favourite appetisers of the whole trip. Served complimentarily before a meal, this very Japanese appetiser of cold tofu, chopped pickled greens and tiny pink prawns dressed in soy sauce was a study in Japanese subtlety and simple ingredients.

Grilled salted squid

On the other end of the scale was one of the grilled items we chose: a salted, semi-dry squid filled with something else salty in its body and served in slices with mayonnaise. 

This was on the same level of saltiness as Vegemite, though infinitely chewier than a piece of toast. I can definitely understand why it's a drinking snack and was thankful for the draft beer.

Ginger-infused vodka and Hibiki 17-year-old whisky at J-Bar, Shinjuku

Another stumbled-upon place near the hotel, J-Bar was a very modern styled underground bar, with a slick stainless steel kitchen producing a rather delicate bar food menu. 

It was the first place where I was reminded that people are still permitted to smoke indoors in restaurants and bars in Japan, though not outdoors on main streets.

We went straight for the drinks and I couldn't resist the ginger infused vodka sitting on the counter. I like my ginger and the Smirnoff bottle filled up to one-third with thin slices of ginger was promising.

Moscow Mule

The resulting Moscow Mule had that much of a ginger kick that it was spicy. Served classically in a copper mug, I loved the addition of the young ginger shoot acting as a stirrer and an edible garnish.

Bloody Mary

My view is that it's safest to go with classic cocktails in Japan, which tend to be executed very well. Japanese cocktails tend to go the other direction in terms of flavours and styles (you'll see what I mean in upcoming posts).

The classic Bloody Mary was a safe bet, presented with a caddy full of DIY condiments like Tabasco and worcestershire sauces. Classic cocktails in a smoky room ended up being the perfect end to a busy day in Shinjuku - plenty more Japan posts to come.

Offers on the table: Table for 20

With about two years' offer and deal buying experience under my belt now (predominantly restaurant offers), I think I'm a confirmed fan even though I know some restaurateurs wouldn't touch them with a ten foot pole.

I've mostly had good experiences, save for a few refund problems with certain sites I now no longer use, and found there to be generally more issues with deals outside of restaurant ones.

Flexibility appears to be the one pressure point for all involved, and it's this factor that generally decides whether the voucher experience is pleasant or otherwise.

Table setting at Table for 20, Campbell Street, Surry Hills

I was at Table for 20 courtesy of a Lime&Tonic voucher recently and really only there because the restaurant was, thankfully, flexible with certain booking details.

Not being my first time experiencing the unique, communal-style "neighbourhood dining", I knew the drill and was looking forward to some excellent Italian fare - food which is said to remind owner Michael Fantuz of his childhood dinners.

Tables set  for 20

The concept is the brainchild of Fantuz, who has recently also opened Buffalo Dining Club in Darlinghurst.

The idea behind Table for 20 is to bring people back to eating as a social and festive event; sharing space, platters, conversation and maybe even your BYO wine and a few laughs. Some of the proceeds from each night also go towards charitable organisation, Hope Street.

So while groups can book out a section, table or indeed, all 40 seats; most people turn up in couples or small groups and seated next to strangers, are encouraged to talk and serve each other food over three shared courses, which is really a most intimate action.

Orecchiette with lentils, pine nuts and mascapone

We started a bit after 8pm with some seriously good bread rolls with olive oil and salt, and moved on to a long share platter of orecchiette pasta as the first course.

In a word, the pasta was sublime. Everything was just right: the textures, flavours and seasoning. The orecchiette (Italian for little ears) had the most delectable chewiness, tossed through with firm lentils, toasted pine nuts, creamy mascarpone cheese and plenty of fresh parsley.

It was the second time I've had a pasta dish with legumes (both times at Table for 20) and I've been bowled over both times.

Roasted beef fillet with peperonata sauce

After a few helpings of the pasta entreé, the generosity of the main was a bit intimidating, even with an appropriate pause between courses.

Another long platter brought out thick hunks of mostly tender, roasted beef fillet that were still pink and juicy in the middle, topped with a chunky peperonata sauce featuring squares of capsicum.

Salad of butter beans, fennel, tomato, mixed leaves, sesame

The main course was served with roasted potatoes and a fresh salad featuring butter beans and raw fennel, which was all together unique, healthy and delicious. There was also something pretty special in the dressing they use on the salad which made eating vegetables and legumes particularly joyous.

Amaretto Disaronno cheesecake

While the two savoury courses are more than sufficient to satisfy a hearty appetite, my experience reminded me not to go overboard before dessert.

Some of the most amazing sweets come out of the Table for 20 kitchen in whole cake form, which makes dishing it out at the table as festive as a birthday celebration.

Amaretto Disaronno cheesecake slices

The amaretto cheesecake did not disappoint. Baked with a biscuit base, the lightly creamy cheesecake was completely swoon-worthy with vanilla tones, and deserving of second and third helpings - if only I didn't have second and third helpings of the pasta earlier.

At this point a doggie bag would have come in handy, but I resisted putting unwrapped cheesecake in my handbag. Table for 20 has definitely been one of the better deal offers I've experienced and I wouldn't hesitate to return for either the pasta or dessert alone - and it appears the offer still stands.

Food, booze and shoes received $50 credit from Lime&Tonic, and used it towards the Table for 20 offer.

Give The Little Guy a go

The enthusiam for small bars in Sydney has pushed out from the city and Darlinghurst into Glebe where a few recent openings are attracting a local crowd. The vibe in Glebe is still a little rough around the edges, and the small bars on the main road have that same likeable characteristic.

With a street facade painted dramatic black, The Little Guy features a huge window that opens out to Glebe Point Road where elevated drinkers sip wine and cocktails. Walk into the cosy front area to see the bar with handwritten drinks menus on clipboards, with some seats at the bar and plenty of space down the back of the converted house and even upstairs.

Bloody Mary and popcorn at The Little Guy, Glebe Point Road, Glebe

If it's a Sunday, you'll need to order the $10 special on their Bloody Mary. With the greatest use of garnishes I've seen in a Bloody Mary, this vodka, tomato juice and worcestershire sauce cocktail is rolled rather than shaken, with your choice of Tabasco sauce levels.

It's one of the best variations I've tasted, helped along with the pretty tri-coloured skewer of a green olive, a pickled onion and a cherry tomato, and a gherkin on the side. If that's not two serves already of your daily fruit and vegetable intake, I don't know what is.

Freshly popped popcorn from the old-school popcorn maker is complimentary and with a little more seasoning, would be the perfect afternoon drinking partner.

Pisco sour

From the changing cocktail list, the day's pisco sour is a passionfruit variant of the South American liquor cocktail. With a great egg white head dotted with bitters, the pisco is full of fruitiness and a good kick of booze, although I'm undecided as to whether I like passionfruit seeds in my cocktails.

The Little Guy

There are limited grazing plates on offer, I think, but The Little Guy isn't trying for too much and that's where it succeeds. Keeping it simple and casual suits the neighbourhood bar and Glebe locals perfectly while live music on Sunday evenings is a total bonus. Go on then, give The Little Guy a go.