Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Ox celebrations continue

Another night, another celebration. I feel like I'm doing Chinese New Year proper this year - with week long celebrations and the like. I'm not complaining though, other than the blister-inducing curse that is new heels.

Onto more pleasant thoughts of a dinner at the Shangri-La Hotel ballroom the night following the twilight parade, essentially to promote the hometown of those 500+ performers flown in from China. I tend to forget the sheer size of China when thinking travel destinations, with just major cities - like Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou - and tourist sites - like Xian and Guilin - sticking in mind. Henan Province is in central China and home to the Shaolin Temple and other things I'm told by promotional videos and speeches that I now don't recall.

But thank goodness for high-quality hors d'oeuvres, which you can usually count on a five-star hotel for. An avocado and lobster tart had me tottering around chasing the waiter about the pre-drinks lobby area. In a pre-made minature tart casing a coriander-spiked avocado mixture propped up two scrumptious pieces of lobster - a mouthful that went decadently well with a glass or three of sparkling white wine. I could live on a diet like that.

There was also a very substantial and minced pork-packed dumpling in a thin wheat flour pastry; sliced lavash rolls of smoked salmon and deep fried king prawns floating about the lobby in abundance. This made a bit more sense as the welcome speeches went well over at least 20 minutes after seating. Timing is always a little difficult at these types of events. Personally I prefer not to have a performance during a meal, but don't mind speeches; however I don't think this goes down well with the important, official types.

Alternate drop entrees arrive in the nick of time, before I can have a whinge about being starved and trying to locate the nearest Maccas. They both sound a little unusual on the menu but I'm happy to have scored the lighter-looking option.

Salad of duck rillettes with pickled cucumber and citrus salsa
from Shangri-La Hotel banquets, Sydney

The bits of savoury duck are chilled and simply no match for roast duck, in western or Chinese styles. The meat was a little gamey but matched well with the bits of orange in the salsa. The salad was overall lacking, needed a dressing or sauce to heighten the greens. Pickled cucumber slices were nice but a bit out of place.

The other entree looked extremely heavy and rich, and certainly not a typical summer dish. I found it most odd that there was a strongly cheese-featured dish for a predominantly Chinese turnout. Maybe I'm basing that on outdated stereotypes - perhaps sheep's milk cheese is big in China. And on oddities, the orange napkins in a red and yellow/gold themed room seem to clash in my slightly colour blind opinion, but anyway.

Braised veal loin with porcini and taleggio cheese

The small block of veal was melt-in-your-mouth succulent and infused with flavour. The taleggio was surprisingly not too rich nor creamy, judged from my one mouthful, and I didn't see a mushroom but I think the that's what the jus was based on.

Throw in a few more speeches, a signing of a memorandum and other official bits and pieces before mains arrive. At about the same time, performing students of the Shaolin Temple also hit the stage, quite literally, with swords, spears and other weapons of kung-fu mastery, making it all but impossible for me to even glance at my fish main. Luckily it stayed hot through to the end of the performance, where animal-styled kung-fu entertained and kept the room in awe.

Seared blue cod and cod brandade with celeriac dauphinoise,
foamed shellfish broth and Thai asparagus


The cod was quite substantial as a dish; a thick, meaty fillet. The brandade spread over the top of the fillet was a bit starchy and reminiscent of mash, but probably more like a very potato-ey bacalao (Spanish cod croquettes). Not a fan of the flavour of celeriac, even masquerading as a dauphinoise, but always a fan of asparagus. The "foamed shellfish broth" was more like a thick, cream sauce without really a hint of seafood flavour, but nicely accompanying the fish anyway.

The alternate main was a less interesting sounding and looking "corn fed breast of chicken with rosemary and roasted garlic pomme fondant and Provencal vegetables". Chicken with mash and vegies, anyone?

The red colour theme kept through to the dessert too, intentional or not. Lucky and prosperous indeed for those lucky door prize winners, taking home artworks and imitation relics. My lucky table number 18 also hosted a lucky winner, but I had no luck in trying to like and enjoy the dessert that followed.

Framboise chocolate cake with raspberry puree

While it looked pretty, even despite my attempted artful drizzle of raspberry puree, the cake was a bit of a letdown. More stodgy than fudgey, the cake was like a poor, freezer version of mud cake. The raspberry puree didn't improve it much but I was most content with my thin dark chocolate cigar. Then tea and coffee arrived and I had even more reason to be content.

Handmade chocolates

The plate of chocolates promised delectability and did not disappoint. I had the dark chocolate cup, which housed a lemony filling and topped with a swirl of hazelnut praline, and the red ball - a red sugar coated, strawberry filled sphere of white chocolate sweetness.

Lingering awhile as people dashed home for whatever one does on a Monday night, my companion and I make the most of the organiser's elected beverage package and finally, but not lastly, make our way out into gale-forced winds home. As luck would have it I have my hair down, but at least a non-floaty skirt so still have some dignity as my hair style enters a completely different realm.

Monday, February 2, 2009

Inner views of Chinese New Year

And the festivities continue still. As Sydney Festival comes to an end I do hope that there will be other festivals throughout the year to keep me entertained - well, at least throughtout the rest of summer. In the meantime Chinese New Year festivities are doing the job nicely, with food and seemingly endless local government-sponsored affairs. Any chance to learn a little more, to get a view into the inner workings and to be merry with others is fine by me.

Now tell me, how many chances would one get to see the kitchen of a Chinese BBQ shop? Before retreating in any disgust or fear, I'd say fairly few. As part of the Chinese New Year Festival, the Haymarket Chamber of Commerce ran free historical and cultural tours of Chinatown. As much an educational experience as culinary (it ends with a yum cha option), the drawcard for me was the opportunity to enter the kitchen of one of the most popular Chinese BBQ shops in Sydney's Chinatown - they were the only one with queues of dedicated customers on Chinese New Year's Eve.

I admit that I was a little trepidatious about seeing the kitchen; afterall, I don't want future eating experiences to be potentially ruined. But I can proudly say that I was pleasantly surprised and impressed with what I saw. Take heed, the following pictures are not for the vegetarians among us.

Roast duck, char siu (Chinese BBQ pork) and roast pork are the main items I see home from these stores and it is these items that feature in the kitchen this day. Upon descending a steep set of stairs to the kitchen, I am greeted by stainless steel, white tiles and this to my right.

This little piggy didn't quite make it to the market...

I can only presume that the other (top) half of this little piggy had become that stunning centrepiece of Chinese New Year celebration offerings that is the roast suckling pig. I am repulsed and drooling simultaneously at the thought. Elsewhere in the kitchen were preparations of all stages for roast ducks - the overall process of which is more complicated than just sticking the bird in the oven we're told. Recipe secrets were not shared but it was nonetheless intriguing to see parts of the preparation process, from white-pink bird to the golden, glazed versions in the display window.

Ducks in preparation

Ducks soaking and drying in their marinade
(Similarities to the fake tan process?)

Other festivity at this time was the twilight parade through Sydney streets for the new year. Some ingenious thinkers among us had planned to camp out at a spot to catch the parade that provided not only seating, but air conditioning, drinks and atmosphere in spades. A bar on one of the streets that the parade would pass - clever indeed. And steering away from the sauv blanc affair for a night found us in the capable hands of a very decent Mudgee drop while waiting for the parade.

Chain of Fire sauvignon blanc semillon from JB's Hotel, Haymarket

The parade itself was pretty impressive, perhaps helped along by the not too fruity, not too dry wine and the cool breeze on another balmy summer evening. Some select imagery below but a most congenial and festive atmosphere by the roadside barricades.

2009 - year of the ox

A young, hot pink lion

Henan Province (China) performers

Henan Province performers in the parade

Shaolin Temple performers

That's the spirit!

Marching band

Fireworks in Tumbalong Park

Late night snacks in Chinatown of the quick-and-easy, eat-on-the-go variety should be more plentiful, I think. Anyway, piping hot custard puffs aren't too bad, nor pricey, if you don't scald the tongue on the first mouthful.

Custard puffs from Emperor's Garden, Haymarket


The custard is thick, hot and gooey but not egg-y like the type you get in egg tarts. The pastry is also hot and holds the custard well while not being too oily or overbearing. A dollar gets you four of these hotties so they're made for sharing really. Happy Chinese New Year all!

Money doesn't grow on trees, but it seems red packets do!

Emperor’s Garden Cake & Bakery on Urbanspoon

Friday, January 30, 2009

Reaching summits and expectations

Expectations are an odd creature from my perspective. Have them and be disappointed; don't have them and lack ambition; meet them and then what? I think it's because expectation leads to framing of thought so that whatever is then judged against expectation. And sometimes judgement just isn't necessary. However having expectations blown away (which, I might add, rarely happens) completely from left field - now that's good fun.

After a busy weekday that was a notch below scorching, I had a busy night lined up with dinner, drinks and a highly-anticipated performance as part of Sydney Festival. I found it hard to pass up the opportunity to dine finely for a bargain price as part of the Fast Festival Feast, so a fellow Festival-ite and I navigated our way through the jungle of suits at Ryan's Bar to the building elevators at Australia Square. We were climbing up to the Summit.

The night was still young, so much that blue skies and sunshine allowed for perfect city views. We were seated and initially facing the south with the sunset due to hit us mid-meal given the revolving nature of the restaurant. The revolving restaurant concept always seemed a bit of a gimmick to me: all cartoon, space station-like. I'm not sure where I got that impression from. It's also likely that the revolving may act as a distraction to the food, possibly even become the highlight over the food.

As a Summit first-timer I'll have to admit that the views and novelty won me over more than the food. And I don't think I was the only one, for when the Harbour Bridge appears in sight there's a noticeable lull in patron activity and conversation. And I also liked that the bathroom came to me perfectly timed as did the elevators when we were leaving.

But to food. The Fast Festival Feast consists of a set main, glass of wine and a little chocolate to finish. We ordered an additional side and started into the sourdough roll with butter and pink salt flakes. With news to catch up on and views to catch all round, it wasn't long before our meals made their way to our window facing table.

Fennel salt crusted Hiramasa kingfish with crisp white polenta and
basque piperade dressing from Summit, Sydney

The main meal wasn't my top pick from the lot of restaurants but the venue settled it for me. It was reasonable nonetheless and a pretty sight before I got my cutlery to it. The small fillet of roasted kingfish was topped with sweet, diced red and yellow capsicums. The fish was cooked well but not dry and went well with the olive tapenade which is hidden in the picture.

Below the fish was a pile of green beans split in half and a bit overcooked for my liking - definitely closer to tough than crisp. They sat on top of a cake of white polenta - crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside - that went well with the smear of the pureed tomato sauce. For the side I'm as predictable and addicted as ever.

Young rocket, cherry tomato and parmesan salad

A bowl full of the freshest rocket leaves in a cabernet vinegar dressing was lodgings for grilled and halved cherry tomatoes and shavings of parmesan cheese. I got a distinct taste of honey from some ingredient in the salad, probably the tomatoes, though I'm skeptical to think that it was a natural occurence.

Not being tempted by the dessert menu after the meal is further evidence that my days as a sweet tooth are over. I have such good childhood memories of Milky Way chocolates. By the end of the whole dinner we've come full circle and we once again look southward with a hazy, tri-coloured sky of sunset to the right. Perhaps this won't be a regular dining venue, but potentially a (relatively) more cost-friendly drinking venue?

Such an obedient line of Grey Geese at the bar

But the feature of the night is still to come. A hop, skip and good 15 minute walk away to Hyde Park for the one, the only, La Clique. On approach to the Festival Garden, it is indeed festive and enticing; a sophisticated 'run away with the circus' vibe almost. I've only heard good things about this performance and was trying desperately to keep expectations in check. A strong start with onsite bars and that unmissable drinking-out-of-doors atmosphere.

There's an air of excitedly relaxed anticipation about as we queue our way into the Famous Spiegeltent, wine and tickets in hand. There's a buzz inside with loud, circus music blaring over chatter and movement. We manage to squeeze into a booth, noting a bar or pub feel, and almost immediately spot Barry Humphries in the front row.

The seats fill up, the standing section seems to overflow, and we're all then transported into another world. It's definitely an eclectic gathering of talent, ranging from the localised comedy of Queen Elizabeth; 1920's styled tricks and antics to shock and awe; amazingly progressive puppetry and dance; a cheeky blue bunny; sisters that made me wish I had one (well, the trapeze act, not so much the other); and two extremely different men vying for my vote as favourite.

I can't stop giggling at the thought of the hilariously funny Carl-Einar Hackner, magician and musician extraordinaire. For me, he has created a few of those positive moments in life that you recall and involuntarily react to - whether it be a laugh, smile or something a little more mischievous.

He makes his entrance in a dowdy white suit, carrying a weathered plastic bag of tricks and illusions he pleasingly performs for the audience. This IKEA-residing Swede is awkwardly endearing - he is unjaded, very willing to please and talented beneath his guffawing facade. He made several appearances through the night (on the second or third time saying "Hi, I'm Carl-Einar Hackner. Still.") and I would have been happy to see even more of him, his Stevie Wonder impersonation, his 'bandana' trick and jaw-dropping harmonica melodies. The mere thought of him or one of his gags and I break into a grin whether I like it or not.

Saying that, the closing act of David O'Mer also provokes involuntary emotions. His bathtub acrobatics were easily the most impressive, sensual act and I think he held the full, undistracted attention of everyone in the Spiegeltent. Aside from those in the front row trying to shield themselves from his water sprays, that is. The pure strength and exquisite movement. The rubber duckie and scrub brush. Oh yeah, and that chiselled topless body and smouldering confident looks.

It's a tough competition but I think being doubled over in tears of laughter, Carl-Einar wins this one by a slim margin. Magic! La Clique wasn't quite what I had expected but boy, those expectations were blown well away.


Scotty the blue bunny outside the Spiegeltent, Hyde Park


Summit on Urbanspoon

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