Rockpool B&G - Grass fed: 1, Wagyu: 0

I’m no beef snob. I don’t have minimum marble score standards or necessarily need to know how long meat as been aged. I have a preference for grass fed only because in my imagination cows are on grassy, daisy-laden hills beneath blue skies, not munching about a wheat field. I even enjoyed a Maccas cheeseburger recently (they taste better when scoffed in just a few mouthfuls).

Rockpool Bar & Grill, Bligh Street, Sydney

But it’s hard not to feel a bit posh about it when I’m at Rockpool Bar, a near institution for beef and beef eaters. I calm the nerves and the end of week relief with cocktails while seated at the bar, which is actually prime seating for watching bar action and even kitchen interaction.

Action seated at the bar

And did you know that you can order from the full restaurant menu from the bar? Indeed, you can slice into your three-figure wagyu steak while sitting at the bar, perhaps with some mac and cheese on the side, and follow it up with dessert too.

Cocktail coupe glasses

All the cocktails seems to be served in classy, dainty coupe glasses; slightly taller and more slender than those used for champagne at 80’s weddings – and perhaps still today. It seems to be the cocktail trend at the moment, even replacing the martini glass here.

Pouring and straining a cocktail

The range of cocktails at Rockpool Bar leans towards old school – no Cosmopolitans on the menu here. It’s educational whilst also showcasing some of the custom liquors created by the bar and of course, some skilled shaking and mixing service.

The Logistics Cocktail

I picked the Logistics Cocktail for its tame alcoholic content (London dry gin, rather than any sort of rum or whiskey), which is apparently a blend of two 20th century cocktails.

Mixed with mirto, grapefruit bitters, crème de cacao and lemon juice, the pink hued drink was a bit of a confusing flavour for me, with initial sour notes followed by a slightly bitter, chocolatey nuttiness that was quite strong.

Almond Sidecar

I actually preferred my companion’s Almond Sidecar, which was completely unexpected. I normally shy away from almond flavours as I really don’t like the weird taste of artificial almond (marzipan included, and same goes for artificial banana), but the pleasant surprise was that it wasn’t here – I shouldn’t have expected any less from Rockpool.

Here, toasted almonds are infused with beurre noisette (brown butter) and Hennessy VSOP, cooled overnight to let the fat separate from the spirit, leaving what’s called ‘fat washed’ Hennessy – a technique by mixologist Eben Freeman of Tailor in New York City. Impressive stuff.

With the addition of orgeat, what results is a soft nuttiness all over the palate with sweetness from the Cointreau balancing the lemon juice.

Drinks sorted, it was time to look at the fairly substantial bar menu. There’s a huge variety of options, from fresh seafood and cured meats to empanadas and roasted goodies. The main plates section is where the burgers reside along with sandwiches, pasta and steaks – sounding a little like a pub menu but really not.

David Blackmore’s full blood wagyu hamburger with bacon,
gruyere cheese and zuni pickle

I started with my half of the wagyu burger which, like the other burger too, is rather tall, making it a little difficult to get around. But it’s worth the effort for the salty, crisp bacon rashers, melted cheese, zucchini ribbons and pickled Spanish onion.

And the pattie. Cooked to my chosen medium (though it was hard to see in the dimness) as I’m not so sure about bleeding burgers, the David Blackmore’s full blood wagyu pattie was thick and bulky, well seasoned and agreeably meaty. I wouldn’t go as far as calling it juicy, but there was a definite richness about it that was much more noticeable after trying the Greenham grass fed beef pattie.

Greenham grass fed hamburger with bacon, gruyere cheese and zuni pickle

The grass fed burger pattie with all the same toppings was admirably on par with the wagyu, if not better – depending on preferences. I found the pattie, also cooked to a medium, of a more robust, meaty flavour which I quite liked, rather than the rich, buttery flavour of the wagyu.

Onion rings with house-made ketchup

To have with our burger halves, we had the onion rings which I remembered so fondly from a previous visit to the restaurant. They didn’t seem as crunchy as I remembered and a little more oily, but still so good dunked in their house made tomato sauce. The serving tongs are so dainty and not quite befitting of a burger and onion rings, but I suppose that’s part of the charm.

Rockpool Bar is a casual alternative to the restaurant next door and fills up swiftly on a Friday night. But turnover at the bar seats is fairly quick, with mostly duos staying for no more than two drinks generally. Being so well staffed, speedy service helps move drinkers along, but you never feel rushed nor ignored.

In the battle of full blood wagyu versus grass fed, in my opinion, the Greenham grass fed burger emerged victorious; but not everyone will share the same opinion – of the burgers and the grassy, daisy-laden hills.

Old is new at Old Town Kopitiam Mamak

I’ve gotten to an age where I’m seeing fashion trends come around for seconds, thirds even (I’m currently thinking all those vintage floral and liberty prints). While I’m not sure I want to see baggy jeans or denim overalls again, it reinforces the cyclicality of life and that everything old is new again at some point, probably with some adjustment.

Inside Old Town Kopitiam Mamak, QV Square, Melbourne CBD

For me, the rise of Asian street food, especially Malaysian hawker style food, is new, exciting and different; while for others, it’s same old food from home in a different setting with a different price point.

My experience isn’t framed by what the food ‘should’ be, since I have no real reference point for it (well, not until tomorrow) – which, in a way, heightens my enjoyment. New food experience versus old, familiar comfort food – explains a lot about differing opinions on the very same meal.

Front of Old Town Kopitiam Mamak, QV Square

It was brunch time in Melbourne and Old Town Kopitiam Mamak near the open air section at QV was reasonably full, filling up completely as lunch hour rolled around.

A glance at the kitchen showed a huge stainless steel space and well as a bain marie out the front holding a range of options for the nasi kandar part of the menu. The menu lists everything I’ve come to expect from mamak food, plus a few new ones I haven't seen yet.

Drinks section shelf

With the drinks and desserts section of the restaurant occupying an entire bar the width of the venue, it was hard to go past a traditional drink that would use something from the well-stocked shelf of Milo, Horlicks, condensed milk and other national treasures of Malaysia.

Old Town teh tarik

The hot teh tarik arrives in an elegant teacup with matching saucer with a bit of froth on top from the ‘pulling’ of the tea – pouring the white, sweetened tea from cup to cup (usually at height) for an airy, frothy drink. It’s both strong and sweet, and as good a pick-up as a morning coffee.

Old Town teh C special

You could consider the Teh C Special a pimped-up version of tea; a three colour, three layer beverage of palm sugar syrup, condensed milk and milk tea. If the caffeine in the tea does nothing for you, all that sugar must.

Roti canai

Rightly or wrongly, I base my roti standards on Mamak, as my first ever roti experience was there and fantastic. Even then, I also rate the frozen packet stuff you can get in Asian supermarkets, but it’s never quite as light as Mamak’s roti canai.

This roti canai doesn’t quite hit the Mamak benchmark but is a worthy contender. More chewy than crisp, it was served with a curry sauce and a fiery blob of sambal.

Roti telur bawang

The flat pieces of the roti telur bawang were filled with rather pungent onion, and cooked with egg on and through the surface of the dough. Served with the same sauces for dipping, I think roti is a great way to start a meal (although admittedly, the carbohydrates are probably quite filling).

Otak otak

I was told that traditional otak otak was not quite meant to be as this version was, which almost looked like a rectangular pat of curry paste, wrapped and grilled within banana leaf that was secured with toothpicks.

The minced fish was spicy and packed with lemongrass, but the texture was soft and grainy, and didn’t hold together well. I can’t wait to see how otak otak is really meant to be.

Mee goreng

The deep coloured mee goreng arrived steaming hot to the table; obviously fresh from the wok. The Hokkien style noodles were sweet with kecap manis, and mixed with a combination of ingredients including chicken. So tasty it was, we finished every last noodle on the faux banana leaf plate.

Char kueh kak - fried carrot cake

I’d never tried this dish before but was advised that it was like the turnip cake one can get at yum cha – which I don’t particularly like. This char keuh kak, I like.

Slightly glutinous and rather bland when steamed, the ‘carrot’ cake comes to life in the wok with tonnes of seasoning, tossed with the addition of bean sprouts and shallots.

The brunch/lunch crowd

The thought of dessert – roti tisu or cendol – was scurried by my satiation but also by the people outside waiting for a table. It’s quite a large dining area, yet it still fills up at lunchtime with the nasi kandar proving a popular choice. We pay the very reasonable bill and edge our way out and let the new hungry clients take over from where us, the old, left.

Peter’s ham; my Portuguese tarts

I was once told a story about someone looking for some guy’s smoked, cured pork – Peter’s ham. Incidentally, they may also have been looking for an inner west suburb renowned for Portuguese culture and food.

We were at Petersham with one thing on our minds: pastéis de nata, or Portuguese custard tarts. Now, my first ever experience of these sweet cases of custard was in Macau; the tarts bought by a family friend and scoffed in our hotel room, with the creamy fillings still piping hot and dangerously tongue-burning. It was a rich and revelatory experience that ended in a sugary high.

Chickens on the char grill at Silvas, New Canterbury Road, Petersham

But before any sweets were had, lunch was deemed necessary – it’s just something about my upbringing, I think, that doesn’t allow me to have sweets before a meal, to the disappointment of some others.

The plethora of choice on New Canterbury Road in Petersham led us to busy corner shop, Silvas and directly to the rotating, splayed chickens on the warming char grill.

Pineapple Sumol soft drink

Silvas’ authenticity is bolstered with Portuguese soft drinks on offer too, this can of Sumol a sweet, artificial pineapple flavour.

A glass bottle of Sprite

With both takeaway and eat-in options at Silvas, it’s hard to go past the slowly spinning and browning chicken; although other choices around the casual dining space show that the Portuguese mains seem popular too.

Half a Portuguese charcoal chicken with chips and rice

We decide to share a half chicken, with both chips and rice proffered alongside on the large oval plate. The chips are, surprisingly, just as fabulous as the chicken – perfectly golden, crunchy and well seasoned with a flavoured salt. The rice, though, is like a very salty, lukewarm rendition of fried rice – quite skippable I thought.

Portuguese charcoal chicken

To the main event – the Portuguese charcoal chicken, ordered with the choice of garlic or chilli sauces – or both in this case – which are brushed over the chook after coming off the char grill.

The chicken is an attack on the senses. It looks irresistible with its black charred bits and rich colours, and smells as good as it looks, with the taste sending the palate into a tizz: savoury, lemony, mildly spicy. It’s impossibly juicy for something cooked over hot coals, even the breast section, and does well in the microwave for the next meal too.

Pasta salad

To further the carb fest, we also had a side order of a creamy pasta salad; also littered with (presumably) leftover charcoal chicken pieces. With so much food (and carbs) and sweet intentions to follow, a doggy bag was needed – which actually seemed a common thing for the restaurant and its generous servings.

Tarts from Sweet Belem, New Canterbury Road, Petersham

We crossed New Canterbury Road with our takeaway and stepped in through the welcoming doors of one of many nearby cake shops, Sweet Belem. The tray aside the ‘Sweet Belem Tarts’ sign was empty other than a few flaky crumbs, but there was only a second of two of distress before it was replaced with a full tray, piled high.

Tart base

These beauties were still warm but not capable of any burning. They were well done with dark spots and furnished with a great deal of cinnamon. The first tentative bite rained down a shower of flakes from the extremely crisp pastry base, which was probably my favourite part with its gorgeous and ornate delicacy.

Sweet Belem tarts

The warm custard inner was not too sweet and particularly egg-y; a little more than I like but that could be forgiven. It made for quite a rich snack and I couldn’t imagine having more than one (okay, maybe two with a cup of black earl grey tea) in a session.

They’re not quite as nice cold as the pastry loses its attractive crispness, but a stint in the oven or under the grill might be able to rectify that (although I haven’t tried that as yet).

There were loads of other cakes and delicacies in the cabinet at Sweet Belem.

Learning of the day: I don’t know where to find Peter’s ham, but I know where to find good charcoal chicken and pretty good pastéis de nata.