One night only: Jackie M pops up in Waterloo

I've been wanting to visit the restaurant of Sydney's undisputed Malaysian cuisine queen, Jackie M for some time, so it was an easy Friday night choice when she decided to come (closer) to me with a one-night pop-up restaurant in Waterloo.

In conjuction with Eat.Drink.Give., the pop-up signalled Jackie's return to the burners after a few months away from the kitchen so it was a pleasure to see the radiant, smiling chef in action.

Jackie M at the pop-up restaurant at Bocata Spanish Deli, Young Street, Waterloo

With the tropical smell of durian filling the air as we walked into the cleared-out restaurant space, there was an ambitious and authentic menu for the standing-only pop-up venue with cheap beverages offered by Bocata.

I would never have known that the Spanish pilsner Estrella Damm was a perfect match to the multitude of spices and flavours of Malaysian food, but I do now thanks to the pop-up.

Ayam goreng - fried chicken drumettes

While lighting was an issue, the fried chicken drummettes weren't; being a perfect starter for beer-in-hand eating. The succulent chicken flesh was second only to the fanstastic array of spices, including lemongrass and turmeric, in the crispy, well- tanned coating.

There was also a Penang-style rojak salad as a starter featuring small pieces of fruit and vegetable in a very thick prawn paste and peanut sauce.

Otak otak - grilled fish cake

I have a bit of a thing for Malaysian otak otak which is famous in Muar in the south of Malaysia. This version, half-wrapped and stapled in banana leaf, was a little oily to the touch but had all the desirable, intricate herb and spice flavours layered into the smooth fish paste.

I'm certain I could have polished off an entire platter of these little packages of deliciousness; ideally with beer on the side in sweltering Malaysian heat. I'll take what I can get with otak otak but Jackie M's version rates.

Tempoyak Udang (prawn sambal with durian) with Kerabu Taugeh
(bean sprout salad) and coconut rice

Of the more substantial dishes doing the rounds of the room, the very fragrant tempoyak udang was served with a fresh bean sprout salad and coconut rice. The heavy durian smell was surprisingly not strong on the palate and almost didn't have any nastiness about it at all (this from a durian non-lover).

Indeed, I could almost see the appeal of durian, especially in this sweet style sambal sauce with tail-on prawns and coconut rice. It got Dan Hong's approval too.

The refreshing and crunchy bean sprout salad, tossed with coconut and and belacan shrimp paste, was delightful on its own and to combat the heat of the sambal.

Jackie M at the wok

The great smells continued all night as Jackie M manned the fiery outdoor wok, with smoky aromas of her popular char kway teow wafting throughout the insides of the restaurant.

I may have scoffed it before remembering to take a photo, but the char kway teow featured soft rice noodles, prawns, squid and mussels along with egg, bean sprouts, chives and proper smokiness from the wok.

Cendol

I can't not look forward to cendol as it's one of my favourite Asian desserts - none too sweet, rich nor filling. The balance of palm sugar syrup and coconut milk with the green-hued mung bean jelly noodles is dessert perfection.

The pop-up restaurant wasn't quite the full experience of Jackie M's repertoire but certainly a great introduction. I'm sure the 'one night only' pop-up is going to turn into many more visits at Jackie M's actual restaurant and market appearances.

Pop in to The Duck Inn Pub and Kitchen

Aside from home, it's great to have places where you can just pop in and feel comfortable, as if you were at home. The Duck Inn Pub in Chippendale is surprisingly one of those places.

Post recent renovations it no longer feels like a pub at all but rather someone's house - where the interiors are low-key but inviting, and where its warmth on a clear winter's day is more welcoming than the blue but cold skies outside.

Devil's Corner pinot noir and mulled cider at The Duck Inn, Rose Street, Chippendale

The bar doesn't feel like a pub bar, but there are plenty of beers on tap including some boutique brews. The area around the bar feels like a living room, and there are couches by the faux bookshelf and other homely furnishings.

Around the restaurant side, especially closer to the windows where we've scored a table, it feels like a sunroom with views out into the outdoor seating (or backyard).

It's a great place for a group to sit, drink and catch up noisily, which is what most tables seemed to be doing. A mug of spicy mulled cider is made for winter days like this, but I'm finding red wine to be my long-haul drink of choice these days.

Charcuterie board with pancetta, Danish salami, jamon, cornichons,
onion jam and sourdough

There's plenty to tempt on the menu at The Duck Inn kitchen and the friendly waitresses didn't even seem to mind that we were too busy chatting to make food choices. We managed eventually and barely noticed the time that passed before food started to arrive.

The charcuterie board was particularly generous with toasted sourdough but the jamon was cut too thick while the salami was a little pedestrian. The ample cornichons, onion jam and seeded mustard kept things interesting.

Roast pumpkin salad with rocket, goat's cheese, toffee walnuts and honey balsamic

Also from the entree menu was this epic-sized rocket salad with plenty of roast pumpkin cubes and crumbled goat's cheese. The toffee coated walnuts worked a treat with the goat's cheese, as too the sweet honey balsamic dressing.

Roasted eggplant ravioli with sage butter, Castel Blue and walnut crumbs

While hearty mains were the order of the day, I defied the urge to follow suit with the Sunday roast and went out on a limb for the ravioli.

Looking nothing like a pub meal, the fresh ravioli filled with roasted eggplant was strewn with greens, pumpkin and bits of blue cheese. The pasta was lovely and al dente although the filling could have had a better impact with more seasoning.

Lamb and rosemary sausage with creamy mash, capsicum marmalata and minted jus

I adore bangers and mash, especially when the mashed potato is super creamy and luxe as it was here. The quality, meaty sausages were pure comfort with the mash, while the capsicum marmalata sauce lifted the dish out of the home kitchen.

Posh chicken and truffle pie with creamy mash, pea puree and dark ale jus

I'd heard about the deconstructed pies at The Duck Inn, but not a creamy chicken and truffle version. While the mash, peas and jus were well presented, I'm not sure the chicken filling benefited from its deconstructed presentation.

Being a bit of a pastry fiend, I'm not sure deconstructed pies are my cup of tea but I can see the appeal for the carb-conscious (mash aside).

Roast lamb shoulder, creamy mash, carrot and vanilla puree, turnip fritter, sauteed
cavalo nero with peas and bacon, ale jus

The mammoth serves of the Sunday roast special pretty much blew all the other dishes out of the water. A huge hunk of lamb shoulder, with bone in and roasted dark, dominated the plate and subsequently, stomachs.

Not only was the meltingly soft lamb gorgeously rich, the dish included the creamy mash, a flavoursome ale jus and vegetables turned somewhat naughty; that is, deep fried into a turnip fritter and tastily cooked with bacon.

Dessert platter: chocolate brownie with clotted cream and raspberry sauce
and vanilla creme brulee

With thanks to PEPR Publicity, The Duck Inn had arranged for a couple of dessert platters to share amongst our group, although I don't think this is on their usual menu. The nut-studded chocolate brownie was an excellent rendition and even had some kind of praline-like crunch and sweetness within.

The creme brulee was easily the best I've had all year. A cracking toffee top covered a vanilla-fragrant custard that was just textbook in flavour and texture - heaven in a ramekin.

We lingered over glasses of wine and schooners of cider in the restaurant until families and kids started to arrive for their early dinner bookings. We'd popped in for lunch and almost made it to dinner, which is a good sign that The Duck Inn could easily become my new second home.

Chinese Noodle Restaurant: Value on the grape vine

There are so many great little gems in Sydney's Chinatown for good value eating that I'm not sure I'll ever get to discover them all. One relatively well-known sardine tin of a place is Chinese Noodle Restaurant, which is down the Burlington end of Chinatown for those with 1980/90s memories.

Grape ceiling hangings at Chinese Noodle Restaurant, Quay Street, Haymarket

The place is packed on a Friday evening with all walks of life: students for a cheap feed, suits for a cheap feed and families for a cheap feed. The common theme is a strongly attractive proposition, but so too the plastic vines and grapes hanging from the restaurant's ceiling and complimentary Chinese tea.

There's another restaurant called Chinese Noodle House a few doors over, with similar signage (and Chinese name) - but no grapes, I think.

At the very busy and popular Chinese Noodle Restaurant, there's sometimes the need to share a table with another group, but the very efficient and kind of friendly staff manage it well.

Hand stretched noodles with lamb and vegetables

It would be weird to be at Chinese Noodle Restaurant and not order noodles. From my seat in the dining room, I could see the chefs at work - one pulling and stretching the noodles by hand to a thick, slightly uneven shape before a quick plunge into boiling water for our dish.

A soupy mix of lamb, capsicum, onion and celery join our rather overfilled noodle dish, not a pan-fried dish as seems the common order. The noodles have a blissfully chewy texture that's perfect for soaking up the spiced gravy, while the thin slices of lamb are unexpectedly tender. Ticks all round.

'Fish fragrant' stir fried eggplant in sweet sauce

This Sichuan style stir-fried egplant dish doesn't actually have any fish in it; rather it describes the type and style of sauce, which is mostly sweet with a depth of flavour that comes from vinegar and bean paste.

The thick, caramelly sauce covers chunks of lightly deep fried eggplant in what has to be one of my favourite ways of eating eggplant, which in turn is fast becoming one of my favourite vegetables.

Pan fried pork dumplings

And we can't resist an order of dumplings with a few options on Chinese Noodle Restaurant's menu. The piping hot, golden-bottomed dumplings are best left for a little while to save from burnt tongues, as they're straight off the heat.

The crunchy pastry bottoms and soft chewiness of the non-pan fried parts are equally enjoyable while the pork and cabbage fillings are tastiest when eaten with a touch of vinegar sauce and chilli oil.

Three dishes between three people was more than enough for quite a substantial dinner and the bill came to less than $10 a head. If that's not good value for a meal, I don't know what is - get that out on the grape vine.