Mille Vini: A thousand reasons to visit

I've passed by Mille Vini on the busy part of Surry Hills' Crown Street a thousand times but had not ventured into the veteran wine bar until a few months ago. Perhaps it was the thought of 1,000 wines (translation of Italian mille vini) subconsciously intimidating me.

Late last year the former founders of the Crust Gourmet Pizza chain took over the business, retaining its name and wine bar concept and bringing in chef John Lanzafame, a recognised pizza maestro, in the kitchen though not for pizzas.

Wine shelf at Mille Vini, Crown Street, Surry Hills

Chef Lanzafame brings a rustic southern Italian menu - of share plates, pasta and more - to life in the small, narrow kitchen with plenty to tempt both nibblers and diners in a casual and accessible setting.

The two-storied space is full of character, being a heritage-listed building from the 19th century that was once used as a stonemason's workshop.

Wooden beans in the ceiling

History aside, Mille Vini's current wine bar status means you can be drinking one of over 20 wines available by the glass beneath potentially centuries-old wooden beams and brickwork, while dining on appropriately rustic Italian fare.

Sambucca fritte olives

We started with a bottle of the fun Santa Margherita Prosecco and olives from the antipasto menu. Fat and meaty black olives were served warm with wrinkly skins in a small frypan, cooked in a sweet, syrupy sauce of Sambuca anise-flavoured liqueur.

Bambino bruschetta with nduja and cucumber salsa

I am weak to the temptations of nduja spicy salami paste and pretty much order it whenever I see it. I've never had such a generous serve as that at Mille Vine, served as a thick puddle with an oil-filled divot and cracked black pepper.

Presented as a deconstructed DIY bruschetta alongside thick rounds of bread, the nduja was a velvety mix of porcine fattiness and roasted chilli goodness, cut by thin ribbons of pickled cucumber.

Burratta with proscuitto and roma tomato

Burrata mozzarella cheese filled with cream is another of those irresistible Italian delicacies, here served with ripe, sliced roma tomato and beautiful, thinly shaved prosciutto, with lashings of olive oil and black pepper.

The burrata didn't ooze its creamy innards out upon cutting but had a clean, creamy flavour that was perfectly matched with the sweet yet savoury tomato, while the prosciutto held its own on a plate of excellent produce.

Liver pate with pear compote

From the stuzzichino menu we had the liver pate, served in a jar with a thin layer of jelly and on the side, more bread and a dark, sweet pear compote.

The pate was lusciously smooth and rich with a depth of flavour that happily distracted me from the liver factor, although I'm growing to like the offal blitzed with loads of butter in pates and parfaits.

Home made gnocchi with Italian sausage ragu and parmesan

In the spirit of the wine bar, we moved to a second bottle of wine for mains, the 2012 Lamberti Pinot Grigio. It probably wasn't a typical match for the evening's pasta special of gnocchi in a rich, tomato-ey Italian sausage ragu.

The house-made cocoon-shaped potato pasta was airy and light in contrast to the full-flavoured ragu, with sausage bits fragrant with fennel. Served with lots of parmesan cheese, it was an utterly satisfying dish with heart and soul.

Beef tagliata

Italian tagliata is a salad made for carnivores, featuring thinly sliced rare-cooked steak beneath a mound of dressed rocket leaves and parmesan shavings. The steak's juices melded with lemon juice and oil to dress the overall insalate but it was the tender, succulent beef that shone.

Cheese board

The best meals - with great wine and good company - should always end with cheese and so, despite the lure of neighbouring gelato queues for dessert, we opted for the cheese board with a side of ports and dessert wines that I don't quite remember now.

I do recall the parmigiano reggiano being my favourite; the gorgonzola dolce that was beyond divine with a drizzle of truffle honey; tallegio and provolone piccante; complete with dried muscatels, walnuts, raisins, quince paste, fresh red grapes and a range of crisp breads.

Upstairs decor

We came, we ate, we most certainly drank. The combination of rustic, casual eats with mostly Italian wines in an intimate, character-filled venue is a definite winner attracting a broad range of locals, couples, girls nights out and group catch-ups.

While there might not be 1,000 wines on the wine list, after my second dinner at Mille Vini I think there's close to a thousand reasons to get in for a visit.

Disclosure: Food, booze and shoes has previously dined at Mille Vini as a guest.

Fat Rupert's on the BBQ, first Sunday of the month

If the feasting of the festive season hasn't defeated you, head east this Sunday for the American BBQ at Fat Rupert's in Bondi; a monthly event at the small bar/restaurant that was formerly The Flying Squirrel.

As the name doesn't suggest, Fat Rupert's is named after the owners' previously overweight pet dog. Former media exec Aaron Pearce took over the venue in a mid-2013 career change and has instilled a food menu and philosophy of "Simple. Seasonal. Satisfying" under Canadian head chef, Eli Challenger.

Inside Fat Rupert's, Bondi Road, Bondi

Pearce has ambitious plans for growing Fat Rupert's in early 2014, including a renovation of the upstairs current office area to become function space. The decor presently features cute quirks that aren't overworked, plenty of natural light and affable wood tones throughout the venue.

Meanwhile on the menu, chef Challenger is enthusiastic about sourcing quality local produce that's in season, serving it simply when it's at it's best.

While the concepts of food seasonality and sustainability are relatively new in the Australian restaurant scene, Challenger shares that this is old hat in Canada, having gleaned many of these philosophies from the western coastal states of the US. Gluten free is almost standard given the area, with the menu putting asterisks next to items that are not gluten free.

Espresso martini

As it was brunch, I allowed myself the caffeine hit of an espresso martini from the straightforward bar menu. Pretty with crema foam, a chocolate dusting and decorative coffee beans, it was both a little sweet and watery at the same time.

Buttermilk fried chicken with red cabbage slaw

On the first Sunday of every month, chef Challenger puts on an American BBQ lunch menu in contrast to the venue's usual modern Australian seasonal share plates menu.

I wasn't complaining when I could have fried chicken for brunch in a crisp, well-seasoned buttermilk batter, drizzled with a guilt-inducing but delicious honey butter. The chicken was served on a red cabbage slaw, somewhat alleviating the damage.

Pulled pork burger with apple slaw and salad

There was also the increasingly ubiquitous appearance of pulled pork, as any good American BBQ should have, served generously in a soft toasted bun with a tangy apple and radish slaw and lurid orange chipotle sauce.

Best eaten with cutlery, the burger was a smoky and meaty delight that may challenge some new year's resolutions, although the additional side was, not chips, but a healthy cos lettuce, cherry tomato and parmesan cheese salad.

I subscribe to the idea of "everything in moderation", so as long as we don't take our lead from Fat Rupert (the dog), 2014 - or at least January - should be free of resolution-breaking.

Food, booze and shoes dined at Fat Rupert's as a guest.

A fond farewell to 2013

Another year, another 12 months of great food-ing and boozing around town. While sadly, there was no overseas trip this year, 2013 has been a period of steady progress, major birthdays, my fair share of weddings and events, and a general feeling of calmness before what I expect to be a hectic 2014.

No doubt there will be changes next year - some, not really that big a deal; others, massive and life-changing. There will also be some changes to Food, Booze and Shoes following its half-decade milestone earlier this month, so keep an eye out.

But before I get ahead of myself, here are my food, booze and events highlights from 2013.

Food

Bocata de buey – air baguette, Rost Biff wagyu, Tocino de Cielo, pickled and black garlic from MoVida Sydney, Surry Hills

This was finally the year of MoVida for me. My first and third tastes of Frank Camorra's growing restaurant empire came thanks to their move north from Melbourne to Sydney's Surry Hills.

The fitout, the vibe and the menu at MoVida Sydney are all incredibly spot on, but particularly the memorable air baguette crisp, draped with stunning wagyu beef and topped with garlic - easily one of the best tapas I've ever had the pleasure of encountering.

Deconstructed cassoulet from The Owl House, Darlinghurst

One of my favourite discoveries of the year has been small bar and restaurant, The Owl House. It's been around for a couple of years already but I came across the wonder that is its matching cocktail degustation.

I may have rolled out of there but I certainly remember the very delectable, homely but fancy deconstructed cassoulet of a white bean stew, confit duck, braised pork shoulder and sausage. Matched with one of several cocktails, it's a guaranteed winner of a night out.

Trout jerky from Biota Dining, Bowral

I made the trip south to Bowral earlier this year and stayed at Biota Rooms; a new accommodation offering right next to Biota Dining, which received two hats in this year's Good Food Guide.

Destination dining at its best, Biota's seven course degustation was impressive yet fun, and started with an absolutely banging amuse bouche: air dried, jerky style ocean trout that was dreamily smoky, chewy and salty.

Pan fried fish dumplings from ShanDong Mama, Melbourne

Many a dumpling was consumed this year, as in most years, with a standout being the pan fried, open ended fish dumplings in Melbourne's ShanDong Mama.

A simple eatery in a Chinatown arcade, the north-east Chinese offerings include these home-made dumplings with an airy fish, coriander and ginger filling, wrapped in thin, chewy skins pan fried for hot, crisp bottoms.

Ash grilled duck, Jerusalem artichoke, prunes in Banyuls, potato horns, truffle from The Bridge Room, Sydney

As part of a product launch collaboration, I dined at two-hatted The Bridge Room and left a fan of chef Ross Lusted's restaurant and cooking philosophy.

My favourite was his ash grilled duck dish, cooked then grilled over binchotan white charcoal and served most artistically with a jerusalem artichoke puree, prunes, potato skins and black truffle shavings. So special and utterly mouthwatering.

Roasted oysters from Ester, Chippendale

From someone who didn't eat raw oysters several years to now, a bit of a Sydney rock oyster fiend, I've had some great oyster experiences this year - none more so than the roasted oysters from Chippendale newcomer Ester.

Plump and shell free, these lightly warmed oysters served with diced eschallots and vinaigrette were oyster eating heaven.

Crispy pata from La Mesa, Haymarket

The crunchy pork skin of the crispy pata at La Mesa was part of my introduction to Filipino cuisine and unsurprisingly, I want more. Audibly shattering skin with still juicy pork underneath, there's plenty to like about the meat-centric cuisine of the Philippines.

Salade Niçoise from Cafe Nice, Circular Quay

It's a big call, saying the Niçoise salad at Cafe Nice is one of the best salads ever. But it was definitely one of the freshest, tastiest and most exquisitely filling salads I've ever had featuring hunks of poached tuna and salty anchovies with a refreshing vinaigrette dressing over loads of delicately sliced vegetables.

Chilli fries from Beach Burrito, Newtown

This year chilli fries rose to the ranks of my favourite hangover food. The combination of fried potato, spicy mince, handfuls of (cheap) melted cheese and Tex-Mex style sour cream and guacamole on the side at Newtown's Beach Burrito soothed and fixed at least several seedy mornings-after over the last 12 months.

Spiced school prawns & smoked chilli mayo from Anatoli, Bondi Junction

Whole fried school prawns are definitely a 'thing' in Sydney now and the best I've come across are the spiced ones at modern Greek restaurant, Anatoli, in The Eastern adjoining Westfield Bondi Junction.

Crunchy without too many sharp prawn head bits, the spice was just right on the fresh little crustaceans which were served with a chilli mayonnaise - possibly also Sydney's new favourite condiment.

Banoffee tart from Cafe Sopra, Alexandria

I've been a long time fan of the Cafe Sopra restaurants around town but it was only this year at the new Alexandria outpost that I tried their banoffee tart, which is firmly fixed on the Cafe Sopra dessert menu.

It's a glorious construction of biscuit base, gooey caramel, whipped cream and thin slices of fresh banana. With a bit of everything in each mouthful, it's an orgasmic tart with a perfect balance of sweetness and textures.

Booze and events

Plan-ting cocktail from The Lobo Plantation, Sydney

It was another great year for small bars, especially in the Sydney CBD. My favourite of the new lot, and CBD bars generally now, is The Lobo Plantation with its atmospheric, themed underground space and broad-ranging rum offerings.

With complimentary plaintain chips and an excellent bar menu, I love perching at the bar while working through the cocktail list and watching the fun, friendly bartenders doing their thing.

Dita von Teese for Cointreau at The Victoria Room, Darlinghurst

It's not every year you meet the world's most famous burlesque star. Dita von Teese was behind the bar at The Victoria Room earlier this year, mixing Cointreau drinks and cocktails in her role as global brand ambassador for the liqueur.

Opera on Sydney Harbour's Carmen, Sydney Harbour
(Photo by James Morgan, courtesy of Opera Australia)

I still get chills thinking back to this year's Opera on Sydney Harbour. The passionate love story of Carmen played out in front of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House is spectacle enough, but complemented with a wide-ranging array of Spanish-themed food options by Fresh Catering made it a night at the opera like no other.

Mike McEnearney of Kitchen by Mike at Taste of Sydney, Centennial Park

I think I say it every year, but Taste of Sydney just keeps getting bigger and better. Having attended at least once every year since the restaurant festival commenced, it's with a sense of pride that I get to attend, eat and drink from some of Sydney's finest restaurants in the (mostly) glorious Centennial Park outdoors.

This year we said farewell to:
Albion Street Kitchen (which turned into the wildly-popular Chur Burger), Alio, Aseana Food Village, Cara & Co, Claude's, Concrete Blonde, Danks Street Depot, Duke Bistro, Guerilla Bar and Restaurant, North Bondi Italian Food, the monorail, Restaurant Atelier, Roxanne, Selah, Spiedo, The Alibi, The Falconer, and soon, Guillaume at Bennelong.

On the other hand, there have been plenty of new openings that have made 2013 an exciting year in Sydney food and drinking.

I know I'll look back on 2013 fondly in years to come. Thank you to all my readers and followers for all your support and kind comments throughout the year here, on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Here's to another great year - I'm looking forward to sharing exciting news, and amazing Food, Booze and Shoes with you in 2014.