Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Shhh, Secret Foodies: Spanish Warehouse Dinner

We all have secrets, but how often do they involve warehouses and celebrity chefs? As part of the Crave Sydney International Food Festival, Secret Foodies hosted a couple of secret warehouse dinners featuring two well-known Spanish chefs over two nights.

Secret Foodies Spanish Warehouse Dinner, Oxford Street, Darlinghurst
In a secret location revealed via SMS two hours before the dinner event, a large group of diners (mostly couples and small groups) filled the footpath outside a doorway at the city end of Oxford Street.

Diners on Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, waiting for the Spanish Warehouse Dinner
Just hours ago, these diners knew nothing about their evening's dinner plans except that it would be Spanish themed, in a warehouse in the 'eastern suburbs', and that they would be joining many other diners in the same situation.

Entering the warehouse
There was a bit of relief when I spotted the crowd on the footpath (Google maps always seems to have problems with Oxford Street), and excitement when a head popped out from the doorway which led straight down a flight of wooden stairs.

Long table settings
We were greeted with glasses of fruity sangria and several long, seat-yourself tables decked out in festive red napkins and trademark gold masks, for those who wanted more secrets to the night.

Chef Miguel Maestre starts the paella
It was hard to miss the gregarious chef in the corner, stirring rice in a gigantic paellera. Miguel Maestre was the chef for this evening and always a riot of fun. It's interesting to see what kind of banquet he can turn out in the warehouse, which obviously has no proper kitchen nor ventilation.

Tables set in the warehouse
The entire set-up of a pop-up restaurant within hours of a day is impressive: we're talking tables, chairs, decorations, glasses, cutlery, plates, lights even; not to forget the temporary kitchen.

Steaminess aside, I think for the first few minutes everyone just took in and appreciated the enormous effort of the 'restaurant' setting before moving on to socialising with complete strangers.

Miguel Maestre - cooks and entertains!
It's not often you join a dinner table with strangers - even communal tables are designed more to save restaurant space than to encourage talking to the unkown next door. But in the unique situation described, people are more than open to conversing with those next to, across from and even down the end of the table.

Of course, matched Spanish booze helps as well - though not for all the right reasons with the warm Tio Pepe Fino sherry - in addition to the stories and laughs from Maestre himself.

He chats about the evening's menu among many other things, and could consider a career in stand-up comedy though his endless jokes about his heavy northern Spanish accent are all the more endearing.

Ajo blanco - Spanish style cold soup
We start on a cold soup, gazpacho of sorts Maestre explains, featuring almonds and garlic. The grainy texture of the cool, creamy soup suggests bread or coarsely ground almonds in addition to almond flakes, loads of garlic and a traditional accompaniment of a grape slice.

Not to say I didn't like the big garlic hit with the cream, if it were toned down a little, I think this would make a wonderful starter for a summer garden party (otherwise a party where air kisses might even be vetoed).

Tigres - Stuffed mussels
I wasn't sure what to expect of the stuffed mussels, but took a couple on the half shell as the shared platter came down the table. Topped with a golden crumb, there was no suspecting the creaminess of the not-so-stuffed as coated mussels.

In a lightly creamy bechamel-like sauce, these molluscs were reminiscent of mornay styled seafood though not cheesey and flavoured with onions and herbs. It was quite the surprising mouthful - tender mussel and creamy sauce - and a firm favourite of the night.

Tortilla de Patatas - Spanish omelette
Another large share platter came along bearing perfect portions of Spanish potato omelette featuring most impressive uniform slices of potato. The classic tapas dish was lifted with the red sauce served alongside - possibly a tangy romesco but so full bodied that I could have eaten it by the spoonful.

Martin Codax Albarino
These first few dishes were matched with a well chilled albarino wine, supplied by Broadway Liquor Distributors, which was much like a crisp, dry sauvignon blanc.

Chorizo a la Sidra - Chorizos cider style
We couldn't wait to dive into the next shared dish, which Maestre calls "chorizinos". The huge bowl (to share) of mini chorizo cooked in cider with onions smelt heavenly and featured some of the best chunky chorizo I've had.

The little onions, stewed to a sweet softness, were just as good as the little spicy pork sausages, while nice white bread would have been perfect to mop up all the cider juices that the chorizo had been cooking in.

Maestre dishes out his paella
After the scrummy chorizo, Maestre announced the next course of his paella and family-style, we were to bring our plates to him for feeding. He cheerfully greets everyone he serves and proffers a hearty handshake to anyone claiming Spanish blood - north or south.

The servers get through the queue quickly, and any concerns that the huge paellera isn't enough to feed the entire room are hastily quelled when each diner receives a massive serving of the rice; while seconds are also offered.

Cuatro Pasos Mencia rose
At thispoint of the night, the wine turned somewhat red with the nicely chilled Cuatro Pasos mencia, which is a rose style wine with a dryness that made it ideal with the carb-heavy main.

Paella a la Maestre
I've tried Maestre's paella a few times before and although the toppings sometimes vary, I have to say that this was his best yet. The soft rice was well seasoned with bits of chorizo and loads of baby mussels and squid - I even managed to score some of the crispy bottom bits, but there was no way I could manage seconds. Besides, I could smell the beginnings of dessert.

Churros con chocolate - Churros with chocolate dip
It was pretty cool to see the kitchen pumping out fresh churros in the makeshift kitchen, squeezing batter into numerous deep fry setups. They arrived to the tables piping hot and thickly coated in sugar as opposed to a light dusting.

With dipping bowls of melted chocolate, the crunchy outers of the churros were just as pleasing as the soft, fluffy innards. These were just as good, if not better than anything in a restaurant setting, and given the lack of proper kitchen or ventilation, a job extremely well done.

Pedro Ximenez sweet dessert sherry
A high point of the night (and I'm not just talking sugar levels) was the dessert sherry; the Nectar Pedro Ximenez that was dark and fortified in tastes, bursting with the sweetness of raisins. I'm sure I could have downed half a bottle of this, though that may have made walking back up the stairs a little difficult.

Secret foodies
As the last of the churros were scoffed and the very last drops of Pedro Ximenez sherry squeezed from the bottles, Ms Darlinghurst and Maestre said their goodbyes although the cheeky chef was sticking around to sign copies of his books which were available for sale.

The evening had been extraordinary fun, and there's nothing like sharing food to bring people together - strangers or not. There's a few extra photos from the night here at my Facebook page (and Like me while you're there), and hello to all those I met on the night!

Food, booze and shoes attended the Secret Foodies Spanish Warehouse Dinner courtesy of Secret Foodies and Ms. Darlinghurst - thanks for sharing the fun!

Monday, October 17, 2011

Quick brekky at Sonoma Bakery Café

The beauty of having a Sonoma Bakery Café down a few roads from me means a quick, relatively healthy weekend breakfast is never too far, and without a massive queue. It also means amazing bread is nearly on my doorstep, which I look forward to taking advantage of once picnic season returns.

Turkish eggs at Sonoma BakeryCafé, Birmingham Street, Alexandria
It's an ethic sounding breakfast this morning with Turkish eggs that are perhaps not the most photogenic, but so satisfying. On the manly slice of feta-spread toast sits a huge pile of toppings that restrict one's ability to pick it up.

Boiled eggs are combined with a gorgeous combination of crunchy sesame-strong dukkah olives, lemon and mint. The flavours are so fresh they definitely wake up the palate in a gentle fashion, as all weekend awakenings should be. The spicy tomato sauce side isn't too bad an accompaniment and suffices in the absence of anything to spice up breakfast.

Spanish omelette with asparagus and feta
Moving into Europe proper, I've opted for the Spanish omelette and was slightly surprised with the small sizing, although I guess there were two slices of Sonoma wholemeal toast to console my hungry tummy.

The tender grilled asparagus spears are tasty addition to my day's vegetable count, while the petite omelette also contains roasted capsicum and pumpkin. The omelette is beautifully fluffly and not rich at all while the feta, from memory, doesn't add a great deal to the dish.

There's no room or time for sweets this time, but with a big call recently out of the US regarding one of Sonoma's lunch sandwich options, it seems I'm going to want to return quickly for lunch sometime soon too.

Sonoma Bakery Café on Urbanspoon

Friday, October 14, 2011

Designer dessert: Adriano Zumbo Pâtissier launches at The Star

Food and fashion have a lot in common: they're both trend-driven; come down to individual taste; have broad categories and varieties; can be luxurious or comforting; and are hopefully satisfying.

Always one to take things a step further, Adriano Zumbo has introduced the idea of seasonal collections to his desserts. And given his sweet creations are as colouful and complex as any haute couture runway, it makes some sense that he's using a dessert-inspired fashion show to launch his newest patisserie at The Star, which opens this very weekend.

Adriano Zumbo launching Adriano Zumbo Pâtissier at The Star, Pyrmont
In collaboration with Mossée, Farage, im Boutique lingerie, and in conjunction with the launch of his new book Zumbo, the well turned-out crowd sipped Moet and cocktails and munched on sushi and sashimi canapes in anticipation of the "AZ Summer Collection 2011". Candy pink lights illuminated the space and runway outside the wide, white-curtained new shopfront, soon to be revealed.

Caramel popcorn martini by The Star
I was drawn to the cocktail in the martini glass which was garnished with caramel popcorn on a skewer. Designed by bartenders of The Star and in keeping with the Willy Wonka quirkiness, the caramel popcorn martini was smashing.

The vodka was infused with popcorn via the fat washing method, where presumably popcorn is cooked in lots and lots of butter which is then added to the booze. After setting and straining out all the fat, the popcorn taste miraculously pops into the vodka, in quite a strong fashion too compared to some bacon-infused booze I've tried.

Mixed with a dash of caramel sauce and coconut water, this is definitely what Willy Wonka would be serving if he could get a small bar license in Sydney.

AZ Summer Collection 2011 - Caramelised pumpkin seed Zumboron - clothes by Mossée
(image courtesy of Hausmann)
The fashion parade started fashionably late and it was a little difficult to make out some of the desserts. The show featured a few stunners in terms of the Gateaux de voyage - larger cakes that wowed the crowds as much as the first lingerie-clad model (see more fashion parade photos at my Facebook page).

Lemon verbena Zumboron - clothes by Mossée

Berry Bag (feature item not on menu) - clothes by Mossée

Pecanne: Blackcurrant jelly, blackcurrant ganache, chocolate almond cake, pecanpraline (Gateaux de voyage)  - clothes by Farage

Water My Melons: Orange creameaux, watermelon jelly, compressed watermelon,yogurt crème légère - clothes by Farage

Lemon Carpet Crush: Crème citron, flourless lemon cake, lemon crush liquid, vanillaChantilly, lemon crush jelly, lime marshmallow - underwear by im Boutique

Lemon Meringue: Flourless lemon cake (Gateaux de voyage) - lingerie by im Boutique

Eu-Genius: Caramelized puff pastry, chocolate crunch coconut jelly, violet gel,blackcurrant crème légère - lingerie by im Boutique
As the designer (Zumbo) came out at the last round of the show, the curtains covering the shopfront fell dramatically to the cheers of the appreciative crowd, revealing the confectionary pink and yellow wonderland of Zumbo's creations, with full view of the pastry chefs and ovens too.

Adriano Zumbo Pâtissier at The Star
(image courtesy of Hausmann)
Designed by Luchetti Krelle, there is a definite Willy Wonka feel about the space. I overheard The Star managing director Sid Vaikunta talk excitedly about the conveyor belt in the patisserie, offering sushi train style service, which could be very, very dangerous.

Berry Bag (feature item not on menu)
On the other side, there were displays in the front window, as any designer shopfront would have, featuring the season's collection under bright lights and glassed in away from hungry hands.

Man Goes Peanuts: Peanut butter crunch, mango compote,
mango burnt honey mousse, pain de epice

Ssnowmanorr: Pâté a choux, bubble tea custard, lychee coconut crème légère,
lychee gel, coconut crunch

Eu-Genius: Caramelized puff pastry, chocolate crunch coconut jelly, violet gel,
blackcurrant crème légère

Water My Melons: Orange creameaux, watermelon jelly, compressed watermelon,
yogurt crème légère

NYC Eclair: Pâté a choux, sour cream légère, shortbread crunch, compressed custard

Xiwt: Chocolate Bar Tarts

Lemon Meringue: Flourless lemon cake (Gateaux de voyage)

Pecanne: Blackcurrant jelly, blackcurrant ganache, chocolate almond cake,
pecan praline (Gateaux de voyage)
And next to the bathtub filled with packed chocolate goodies, there are playful cabinets within housing bright, multi-coloured macarons, or indeed as they seem to have been renamed, "Zumborons".

Macaron cabinets
Flavours in this summer collection include coconut, lavender and green chilli (delish!); lime and mint mojito; blood peach; lychee; cola; milk chocolate, chilli and cinnamon; and tonka bean and passionfruit. We were also treated to the collection cakes, some considerately miniaturised so we could fit more in.

Lemon Carpet Crush: Crème citron, flourless lemon cake, lemon crush liquid,
vanilla
Chantilly, lemon crush jelly, lime marshmallow

Berry meringue tarts (name unknown)

Ssnowmanorr: Pâté a choux, bubble tea custard, lychee coconut crème légère,
lychee gel, coconut crunch

Lychee gel centre
While the relaunch of The Star might have kept cynics at bay, the impending openings of Sokyo and Momofuku Seiobo are only going to add to the hype that Zumbo will create as his loyal legion of fans descend upon the casino.

Fans might also go crazy for Zumbo's long-awaited book, Zumbo, which we got in the goodie bag and is filled with so many recipes it makes my teeth hurt just looking at it. It's sectioned into "Zumborons", chocolates, pastries, gateaux de voyage, cakes and desserts - the latter two chapters of which look like so much fun for at-home designer desserts too.

Pages from Zumbo (by Murdoch Books)

Pages from Zumbo (by Murdoch Books)
 Food, booze and shoes attended the launch of Adriano Zumbo Pâtissier at The Star courtesy of Hausmann.

Adriano Zumbo Pâtissier on Urbanspoon

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