The oldies but goodies at New Shanghai Chinese Restaurant

The main road through Ashfield is one of Sydney's suburban Chinatowns, with more of a Northern Chinese slant than the traditionally Cantonese Haymarket Chinatown. And as to be expected from a Chinatown, the street is lined with food outlets and restaurants, grocers, butcheries, fishmongers and fruit shops.

With so much on offer, it's a wonder that I keep returning for just one or two things; namely, xiao long bao pork soup dumplings and their cousins, the Shanghai pan fried pork buns.

Xiao long bap from New Shanghai Chinese Restaurant, Liverpool Road, Ashfield

They don't mess around here, and food hits the table fairly fast and in no particular order. The xiao long bao excite the table as a quasi-appetiser, though still not everyone knows how to eat them without soup squirts or leaks.

These are great, with full-flavoured soup inside the slightly-thicker-than-DTF dumpling skins. I always think I could eat a few baskets full of these, though I'm yet to have the pleasure of that challenge.

Zha jiang noodles

Another favourite dish is the zha jiang noodles; slippery, thick, white noodles beneath an appetising topping of minced pork and spicy bean paste, among potentially hundreds of other ingredients. Alongside, a handful of julienned cucumber combats the slight but increasing heat of the sauce.

Zha jiang noodles, mixed through

The noodles aren't as pretty when mixed through, but it's the only way to eat them properly. While I normally prefer egg noodles over rice noodles in most instances, this is one exception to the case.

Spicy combination wonton noodle hot pot

We hadn't expected the hot pot to be quite such a giant bowl full of chilli red broth, topped with wonton dumplings, beef strips, Chinese greens and black fungus.

Definitely a serving to be shared, this was a meal within a meal that never seemed to end - meat, vegies, dumplings, noodles - we were fishing for food right to the very bottom of the bowl.

Pan fried pork buns

Often the last to arrive are the pan fried pork buns, presumably as they're cooked to order a need a good 10 minutes' cooking, at least, in oil and water in the pan.

Fluffy dough encases a similar pork filling as the xiao long bao although without the soupy delight. These are seriously filling, especially at the end of the meal, so also ideal for sharing.

So, three of the same dishes I usually order when I'm round Ashfield way; four completely satiated bodies and some takeaway; and another satisfying visit to New Shanghai Chinese Restaurant.