Postcards from Rome - part II: Pipero al Rex

Posted by Jan

On a last minute whim I booked us in for dinner at Michelin-starred Pipero al Rex in Rome; a small restaurant within a hotel, with just six tables. Opened in late 2011, it received its first Michelin star within a year under restaurateur Alessandro Pipero and chef Luciano Monosilio

We were received by Pipero himself, who made it a point to chat with us about the menu, offering to tailor the tasting menu to our preference. He was more than happy to accommodate my request to try their famous carbonara as I was on a quest for the best carbonara in Rome.

Pata negra from Pipero al Rex, Rome, Italy

As a welcome we were presented with a complimentary glass of prosecco and a lovely nibble of pata negra Iberian cured ham with a dot of balsamic vinegar.

I love cured meats and the soft, salty fattiness left a wonderful aftertaste which only served to make me hungrier for the meal ahead.

Parmesan and cream marshmallows with hazelnut cream and orange twist

The tasting menu began with a series of appetisers which showed up in quick succession, starting with a parmesan cheese and cream marshmallow.

I adore all things dairy and this morsel of fluffiness was a light, savoury version of a marshmallow, garnished with a tuft of orange zest.

Blue cheese semifreddo balls with spinach cream and potato chips

Next was a foreign-looking green sphere that Pipero explained was a blue cheese semifreddo covered in spinach cream and squares of potato chips.

The blue cheese sphere was not too overpowering and had just a hint of the tang that I love about this group of cheese.

Waffles with chicken liver pate and sweet wine gel

The appetisers menu turned out to be a list of my favourite entrées. The chicken liver pate was creamy and mousse-like, offset by a sweet wine gel ball on a thin, crisp waffle base, and tasted as good as it looked artful.

 Crispy pork Chips with& yoghurt and olive oil Sauce

The final appetiser, and certainly the most unique for me, were the crispy pork chips. The circles looked like an emulsion of pork fat, of sorts, made into a crisp; reminding me of pork crackling but an extremely fine and light variation. I wish I could figure out how to make this.

Raw duck, mustard and apple cream

Moving on to the first and second courses in the tasting menu, we were presented with raw duck served with a mustard and apple cream.

I have never eaten raw duck before but I really liked the way the soft tartare was offset by the crunch of the crostini rounds. I've always associated duck with orange but apple turns out to be a pretty good match too.

Rabbit gravy 

If there ever is an award for best gravy in the world, the Rabbit Gravy dish would be a hot contender. A rich, hearty, broth-like sauce was served with fried potatoes and a goat's cheese sauce so good, I practically licked the plate clean.

Shrimp, coffee and milk

I hadn't expected raw shrimp would be a common dish in Europe but it showed up twice in different tasting menus I had in Rome.

The texture of the finely sliced shrimp takes a bit of getting used to as it can feel a bit slimy, but this was a pleasant combination of raw shrimp with a coffee sauce and a creamy milk sauce.

Tortellini with chicory, mozzarella and anchovies

The tortellini was yet another understated but tasty dish, with a unique presentation and construction of the filled pasta.

I particularly liked the smoked anchovy flavour that was incorporated into the dash of cream sauce, in addition to the segments atop the tortellini and mozzarella cheese.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

I was getting quite full at this point but miraculously, managed to eat all of the carbonara when it showed up. Pipero al Rex is well known for its spaghetti alla carbonara, which is normally sold by weight in 50-gram increments.

It was a rich and creamy dish with lashings of parmesan cheese and the typical Roman addition of salty and crunchy guanciale cured pork jowl. It was a great dish and definitely ranks among my top carbonara picks in Rome but still, it wasn't my favourite (look out for my next Rome post).

Lamb and smoked tea

I don't know how I ever made it through the whole tasting menu because by the time the lamb arrived, I was stuffed.

I powered through the lamb which was cooked rare, leaving it nice and tender, and enjoyed the gentle smoky flavour of the lapsang souchong tea against the raspberry and balsamic sauce.

Pipero returned at this point and kindly offered to pause the menu for a little while I readied myself for dessert.

Sandwich of tiramisu

The first dessert was an interesting take on the classic Italian dessert of tiramisu. I'm not sure what it was made up of entirely but there was a delicious combination of coffee and mascarpone, which was surprisingly a good palate cleanser for the next dessert course.

Apple, yoghurt and almond

The apple-based dessert we had was a great example of a few simple ingredients with different textures, made into something special. The apple gelees and pastes were joined by unsweetened dabs of yoghurt and almond gelato, coming together just right and not overly sweetly.

At this point, the hubby decided that he needed a whisky and ordered a 12-year old Ardbeg. We were so surprised when they poured him a generous serve, left the bottle at our table and asked us to top up as much as we liked. This generous gesture was invariably repeated a few times on our trip at different restaurants in Rome.

Petit fours

I just could not manage another mouthful, but was reliably informed that the almond, hazelnut and pistachio brittle was delicious, as too the almond cookie with dehydrated raspberries and raspberry sauce, and the unidentified geelee squares.

The tasting menu was an experience I would recommend to any visitors to Rome, pairing the many years of experience from restaurateur Pipero and the creativity from chef Monosilio.

Pipero al Rex was not our only Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome, but I felt it was much more representative than others of a blend of local cuisine, seasonal produce and new methods of cooking which seem to be the hallmark of new European cuisine.

More postcards from Rome come.

Postcards from Rome - part I

Posted by Jan

Il Colosseo - the world famous Colosseum, Rome, Italy

Fontana di Trevi - Trevi Fountain

Foro Romano - The Roman Forum

Basilica di San Pietro - St Peter's Basilica after midnight mass on Christmas Eve

I've always thought that I would only go to Italy when I felt ready for it. To me, France and Italy were always going to be serious food destinations that I could never experience properly without spending months and years there, in the romantic style of Peter Mayle's "A Year in Provence".

Rainbow Christmas lights on Via del Corso

We chose two weeks in Rome because it met the important criteria of delicious food and a mild European winter, and it was well suited to our random exploration style in getting to know a city.

Modern and old blend together at the Vatican Museum

I have to confess that it sometimes got a bit overwhelming. The sheer number of things to see and do made me feel like I was never going to get through all the key sites, especially since I had such a long list of food to eat.

Knife-cut "Prosciutti" (Parma ham)

Pizza by weight from Pizzarium

In Italy, ordering anything but an espresso after 11am is a big no no. It's pretty hard to get a bad coffee in Italy but the ordering system baffles me. In some instances I had to pre-pay for my coffee before ordering at the bar. Other times, I got the 'chill out, have a coffee first' look. The only thing I know for sure is that coffee always costs more if you sit down at a table. 

The sights of Rome on sugar sachets

Drinking a few espressos a day sounds like a recipe for insomnia. But as the coffee is weaker than what we have come to expect in Australia, it allowed for multiple espresso breaks all day long which was essential when battling the hordes of fellow tourists got a little too much.

Sunset over the Tiber River

It is difficult to describe Rome. It's magical, dirty, noisy, serene, new and old. It was an assault on my senses but also restorative to my soul. I miss the Eternal City already. And the carbonara, but that's a story for another time.

More postcards from Rome to come.

European memories - Part IV

For the final part of the wistful look back at Europe it's the first stop of Italy the second time around: Milan - fashion and finance capital of the country. That makes perfect sense as some of the designer shopping to be had requires a sizeable personal loan, massive credit limit, second mortgage and the like.

Il Duomo di Milano, Italia

Milan is also home to the insanely extravagant, and my favourite church/cathedral throughout the entire trip, Duomo di Milano. It's so pretty it hurts.

Dessert one lunch in Milan

After lunch one day in a random, hideaway trattoria (risotto Milanese, I think it was) I was keen for a light dolci and the waiter had just the thing for me. A little dish of fresh blueberries, blackberries and raspberries served with lemon and a sprinkling of sugar. I remember being very happy with the simple dessert and quite stoked to have found a little gem of a trattoria.

It was then to two amazing weeks on a farm in the Apennine Mountains, which was disgustingly idyllic in comparison to any other life I know. Views of mountains and valleys all round; mild summer weather; and loads of Italian home cooking. Too many favourite meals to recall, including a soup of white zucchinis from the garden, risotto with four mushroom varieties from nonna's garden, and a simple lunch of a ball of buffalo mozzarella with rosemary potatoes, head of butter lettuce from the garden, home-baked bread and olive oil.

Home woodfired pizza

Plenty to go around

The pizza day was plenty fun, starting with the largest pile of dough I've ever seen in a home and culminating in short burst cooking in a woodfired oven that had been burning for a few hours beforehand. Toppings were plain cheese or olives with mozzarella.

Ciliege - cherries

It was our luck in that it was also cherry season and we had free reign over fruit straight from the trees. Every afternoon became cherry time where we'd pick and eat as we stood under the trees. You could not get fresher, sweeter fruit though I didn't need the ant that came with a cherry one time.

Fragole - strawberries

There were even strawberries growing by the mountain roadside; minute in size but adorable and a yummy addition to the American-style pancakes we had for breakfast one morning.

Boys in Bologna

A day trip to nearby city Bologna was an adventure and a half. After sightseeing and some shopping we settled into a wine bar in a laneway, where a dashing waiter seemed to ply us with wine and free nibbles for hours. We saw these young boys and couldn't help but smile and take a sly photo of their brightly decorated drinks. The journey back to the train station after a couple of bottles was amusing, to say the least, and the ensuing adventure was ridiculous, irresponsible and so very funny.

Makings of insalata Caprese - in Atrani

From memory, restaurants were a little more scarce in Amalfi and tiny neighbour Atrani, so I hit up the village grocer in Amalfi one night to DIY. Much fun going from grocer to fruit and vegie stall to the wine shop, where the guy kindly uncorked my bottle of a local red wine to go. Above I have a bunch of basil, a tomato, a bag of buffalo mozzarella, and some mini bread sticks on the side. And of course, the vino.

Insalata Caprese - hostel style

There was a lot of creativity in the process of making the salad in a kitchen-less hostel room. The drinking glass became servingware; the bathroom sink became washing, prep and cool storage; and plastic cutlery accumulated from the trip proved invaluable. I had two glasses of my insalata Caprese and the same amount of wine.

Atrani turned out to be the perfect pinnacle and end to the trip but not so great in that I didn't want to leave. Imagine leaving a tiny, sunny beach village on the Amalfi Coast for cold Sydney winter. It didn't seem fair, and it still doesn't.

Atrani - sigh...

European memories - Part III

Continuing the memory lane stroll, Amsterdam was one of the final destinations of the tour but not even half way on my European adventure. Amsterdam was essentially the last place where I would be looked after, so I felt it my obligation to let loose like a local and have fun with abandon.

Stroopwafels from convenience store in Amsterdam, The Netherlands

One of my first tasks was to seek out stroopwafels, as highly recommended by a friend. These Dutch biscuits are simply to die for: think cinnamon-spiced caramel smothered between two thin, chewy waffle biscuits. Sweet as all hell but crazy addicitive. I think I ended up with three packs: one for consumption, one I left with a mate in London and one I sent home. I was rather distraught at coming home to be told they'd all been eaten.

Fondue set-up at restaurant in Amsterdam

We also chanced upon a charming little restaurant in the infamous Red Light District, amid coffee shops and sex shops. We went for dinner one night and returned for a fondue lunch the next day. It was probably the single richest meal I've ever had, despite intentions to tone it down with raw vegetables, bread and even a few Grolsch.

Cheese fondue

I remember this fondue selection was 'Napolitana' inspired and so incorporated sun-dried tomato, basil and fetta cheese to the gooey melted cheese fondue - which included gruyere and some other cheese. I think we spent a good few hours with this pot, a couple baskets of bread rolls and a few re-orders of vegetables. Even then I think we barely made a dent in it and we stumbled out richly full and probably not needing dinner.

Cheese, The Netherlands

By this stage we were probably a bit weary of cheese, but this was a sight. Row upon row, shelf upon shelf of hard cheeses aging. We unreluctantly tasted a few but didn't feel the need to purchase a wheel to add to our suitcases.

Dinner in one night in Nice, France

A hop, skip, bus to Paris, Eurostar to and from London, overnight train to San Sebastian and then Barcelona a few days later, I'd made my way - in one piece - to the French Riviera. This particular evening I was keen to escape the tourist life for a little and found relief in an upscale supermarket. I may have spent an indecent amount of time perusing aisles for fun but did come away with half a barbequed chicken, a wedge of brie, a packet of 'roquette', a baguette (of course) and a mini bottle of French sparkling. All of which made for a delightful dinner and lunch baguette the next day too, travelling back to Italy for the next and final four week instalment.

European memories - Part II

We continue with the European trip down memory lane. It's not Bavaria without a trip to a beer hall or three. And it's not a trip to a beer hall without a stein or four. I guess it's just not Germany without a hangover or two.

Stein of Helles beer at the Hofbrauhaus, Munich, Germany

This was at the first beer hall in Munich we visited. Shopping at the souvenir stall after a couple of steins was a bit of a spree; heading back to the hotel on our own at the end of the night was... I don't remember. But I do remember struggling with the door key to our room when we did make it back.

Pork knuckle at the Hofbrauhaus, Munich, Germany

And it's surely a prerequisite to have a bit of pig with your beer. Or in this case, quite a lot. The pork knuckle posed an imposing figure next to what we initially thought were potatoes. The spongiest potatoes ever turned out to be dumplings which ended up being mostly ignored in favour of the golden, crisp-skinned hunk of pork knuckle. The skin was indeed crackily crunchy but the knuckle itself was very meaty, so much so that I think I only got to about two-thirds of it.

Hofbrauhaus Munchen plate

Love custom crockery - especially handy if you find that you've forgetten where you are after that third litre of beer. "What? I'm not at The Rocks...? Munich?!?"

Dinner in one night in Vienna, Austria

I think this was after a few consecutive big nights out, and of course, a big day out sightseeing. The Kit Kat was something I'd taken along from home; the biscuit crackers were accumulated from tour breakfasts; and the cheese and beer came from a supermarket in Vienna we stumbled upon during the course of the day. I remember the can of Stiegl cost 75 euro cents, which I was pretty happy about.

Chilling sparkling without ice or a fridge, Budapest, Hungary

And this was my method of chilling bought-home drinks at the hotels. It worked especially well in our hotel room in Vienna as they seemed to have really cold cold water - and perhaps the can is easier to chill than a mini bottle of sparkling wine, also purchased from a supermarket. Ah, cheap pleasures of grocery shopping.

Next stop: Amsterdam and more

European memories - Part I

It's been two years to the day since Europe. It took me about four months to get used to idea of being back after my two months away. Something doesn't quite add up there, but here's the first of a four part pictorial stroll down foodie memory lane. Or is it more a frenzied dash across the road hoping that crazy Roman traffic will pity me? Or a casual lope down a cobble-stoned, lantern-lined street in Prague? Sigh...

(Note: this was pre-obsessive food photographing days, so a lot of my memorable, to-die-for meals aren't pictured. And there were many.)

First beer in Europe/Italy/Rome

First night in Europe; first night in Rome; first night on tour. What does one need? Local beer, and here is it in Birra Moretti with a suitably Mafia-esque guy on the label.

Delicatessen in Roma, Italia

The most unassuming, unobtrusive little delicatessen right by the Pantheon in Rome, Italy. After viewing one of the most amazing places of worship in Europe, let alone Italy, it's just delightful to have this rustic little deli nearby to serve the tourists and worshippers alike. Personally I would have loved to have lugged one of the legs of prosciutto home, but alas, this was only the beginning of my trip. And Quarantine may not share my enthusiasm for the cured pig.

Crostate di frutti - fruit tarts from the above deli

They did have more traveller-friendly fruit tarts, however, although I think we were too excited to think about food. We had romantic, if not cliched, visions of la fontana di Trevi and the Spanish Steps (not really all that impressive in real life) to see and experience. With sights to see, food was relegated to second priority for a change.

Surely something food-related at Pompeii - storage or cooking?

Our self-guided trip to Pompeii is one to remember: for the empty and eerie walk from the train station to the ruins; the hauntingly gracious unearthed structures and roads; the getting lost without a map in an ancient city; the panicked sprints for stations and trains. Ah, the fearlessness of naive travellers.

Sweets in the window, Venezia, Italia

Memorable times in Venice too, with a day spent dilly-dallying around streets and over bridges, gondolier-ing around residences and under bridges. This particular store was bursting with sweetness and had more meringues than you could throw eggs at.

Deep pan pizza, Venice

We also spied an intimidating pizza display though I'm still not sure if these were Chicago-style deep dish pizzas or just a really thick base. Either way, I thought it a little odd to see in Venice.

Selection of biscuits and pastries, Venice

More pasticcerie

What did attract our attention, sweet tooths and euros was a jam-packed pastry store with tray upon tray upon tray of baked goodies just leering at us. I remember being enamoured with mini cannoli in a variety of flavours and a great many other nutty, chocolatey, crispy sugar and flour concoctions.

Next stop: Bavaria