Asia tripping - part XII: Penang, Malaysia then home

This is the twelfth and final of several brief posts of my recent trip to Asia: photos, food and a few thoughts.

The roti man in Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia

Staying in Georgetown, Penang was an odd choice in hindsight. There didn't seem to be a lot to do other than seek refuge in air conditioned shopping centres - although that did allow me ample time to stock up on Malaysian supermarket snacks.

It also gave us time to seek out roti at every opportunity. One late morning, our roti request was met with a short wait for the roti guy, who had ducked out. Being such an art form, there was no-one else there who could make roti, so we snacked as we waited.

Ayam goreng - deep fried chicken

Ever had fried chicken for breakfast? I have, now. From the nasi kandar section of the shop, the golden-hued surface of the chicken maryland was just as crunchy as it looked.

It reminded me of why thigh fillets are often preferred in Asia over breast fillets - juicy, tender and full of flavour. We cleaned this maryland down to the bone.

Roti telur bawang

Roti man came back and was pretty amused with our late breakfasting and cameras, especially those pointed at him and his creations. His flattening of balls of dough and stretching them till they were thinner than paper was just mesmerising, but so easy and quick for him too.

The egg and onion roti is folded into a rectangle and then dipped into curry sauce, also from the nasi kandar bain maries.

Roti pisang

For a change from my regular roti canai order, I ventured into uneplored sweet roti land with the banana version, or roti pisang. The same dough is filled with sliced banana and a sprinkle of white sugar.

There's a slight salty-sweet play that's very appetising, as well as a soft-chewy contrast between the somewhat cooked banana and grilled dough.

The beach at Batu Ferringhi, Penang

The plan for this day was to spend it by the beach (or indeed, hotel pool) of Batu Ferringhi, Penang's most well known beach. While it has little on Sydney beaches, there are a bunch of waterside activities for the sporty-inclined and it's kind of nice to be by the water on a typically hot Penang day.

And despite our only activity being floating about the lagoon-styled pool and climbing out to reclining sunchairs, we somehow managed an appetite for lunch.

Bain marie offerings for nasi campur in the street centre, Batu Ferringhi, Penang

There are a few roadside options for dining, including the fresh fruit stall which we hit up for dessert. But set up in the middle of the road, we noticed a bit of lunch crowd starting to build by the plastic chairs and tables, and a long, food-filled bain marie.

It's nasi campur we're informed by the lovely chef lady, set up self-serve style whereby you're given a plate of rice and you choose an array meat and vegetable dishes, and are charged per selection.

The takeaway version is similar, except the plate is reverse-wrapped with a plastic bag which is then filled, flipped and tied up to go.


My nasi campur plate

I found it impossible to not try a bit of most the options, though I steered clear of the ones that the lady noted as quite hot (as a Malaysian 'quite hot' is not my cowardly 'quite hot' and I was already sweating enough).

With almost 10 meat and vegetable options on my pile of rice totalling about 10 ringgit (just over AUD3), it wasn't the cheapest meal by local standards, but more than fine by Sydney standards.

The other side of my nasi campur plate

Standouts from memory were the deep red, spicy chicken wing; the deep fried ayam goreng chicken drumstick; some kind of meat curry that also had chunks of fresh pineapple; some kind of spicy stewed eggplant and the square of spicy sauce-coved tofu.

It was a relief to have the non-spicy okra there, but food-related sweating soon outdid the weather-related sweating.

The lovely nasi campur lady

We squandered away the afternoon, although beachside in a rather tropical part of Malaysia can hardly be called a waste. We were looking forward to the expectedly touristy night markets that clog up one side of the footpath of the main road.

While I bought little other than a taro ice cream from a Wall's vendor, the oppressive heat and humidity (even after sundown) plus the swarming bargain-hunting crowds was intense for a (these days) lightweight shopper.

Most amusing was probably the clandestine actions of some stallholders yet blatant selling of fake branded goods at other stalls.

Crowds at Long Beach food court at Batu Ferringhi, Penang

I think we hit Long Beach food court at peak dinner time, as it was heaving and not short on Aussie accents either. And there's nothing like a day of doing not much to work up an appetite.

Pineapple juice

We start off with some necessary refreshments before food and beers; the rather large fresh juices doing the job well.

Lime juice drink

The lime drink is sour enough to fresh lime juice, but with a liberal dose of sugar mixed through as well.

Manning the satay grill

Sweating it out as I was doing nothing, I really felt for the satay guy who had to stand in front of hot coals all night long. I felt for him so much that I was simply compelled to order both chicken and beef satay, as well as a small plate of lontong compressed rice cakes.


Chicken and beef satay with lontong (background)

Both sets of petite meat sticks feature charred black parts, but the sweetness of the chicken is really something above the slight chewiness of the beef.

The spice heat of satay sauce the sticks are served with is somewhat tempered by the cucumber and rice cakes, although personally I find the latter to be generally bland and stodgy.


Chicken char kway teo

The carb fix for the night is the rather-famous-in-this-part-of-town char kway teo; rice noodles wok-fried with chicken, fish cake, egg, shallots and bean sprouts.

The 'breath of the wok' (smokey aroma from a hot wok) is clearly apparent while the bold salty and sweet flavours of the sauce are joyously scoffed.


Jumbo grilled prawns

 Halved grilled prawns the length of my hand were quite the surprise arrival at the table. I'm pretty sure they were the biggest ones I've ever set eyes upon.

Grilled to perfection and doused with a sweet, sour sauce, the bouncy flesh came away easily from the shell. Each crustacean was at least four mouthfuls although I didn't eat the shell nor quite large, spikey heads.


Grilled stingray - ikan pari bakar

Also from the seafood stall, we had to have the stingray - this speciman actually a few pieces from a smaller fish. I found the flesh a little soft compared to its larger cousins but tasty nonetheless, especially with its hot a sour dipping sauces.


Fried oyster omelette

I had excitedly passed a stall that advertised fried oyster omelettes and was immediately handing over the ringgit. Having heard much about this dish, I couldn't wait to try it out, however odd it may sound. Its slightly messy, home-made appearance only added to the appeal.

What we received was indeed a soft, eggy omelette featuring lots of young shallots and indeed lots of oysters, of all sizes too. It was hard to tell whether they were orginally fresh, frozen or otherwise in their cooked state, but they retained all their briney, creamy juiciness within their cloaks of egg and lived up to every expectation.

Grilled chicken marylands

Having more than once sampled the succulent reward of the grilled chicken at hawker centres, an order of a couple of marylands was a given. Again, crisp sheets of skin; juicy, tender and tasty flesh; and completely finger-licking good.

Corn kernels with margarine from Daily Fresh, Penang International Airport

After a pretty awesome two weeks worth of eating and travel, it was a little bittersweet to have our final meals in airports, though it gave me a chance to finally try things I'd been eyeing off at many arrivals and departure gates.

Having thought we had plenty of time waiting for the flight to Kuala Lumpur from Penang, we took a stool at the Daily Fresh stand, which I'd seen all over the city, and finally got the cup of corn I was craving.

With a hefty helping of margarine, salt and pepper, eating this 'healthy' snack was mouthful after mouthful of sweet corn juice goodness.


Daily Fresh waffle with strawberry jam and peanut butter

I also finally got to try the waffles at Daily Fresh, whose aroma would float to all corners of the terminal or shopping centre every time. Going with the failsafe combination of PB&J, or peanut butter with jam (jelly), this intensely sweet snack was probably the appropriate fuel for our subsequent sprint to the boarding gate.


Assam laksa from Old Town White Coffee, LCCT, Kuala Lumpur

With plenty more time to kill before boarding the plane back home to Australia, we also ventured into the Old Town White Coffee chain at the terminal in Kuala Lumpur.

Branded like, and almost as ubiquitous as, Starbucks, Old Town White Coffee is apparently very popular with the young generation for their fix of traditional Malaysian drinks and snacks.

We order one main - the assam laksa - which was rather disappointing; its broth watery with a slight sour fishiness the only flavour point.

Kaya toast from Old Town White Coffee

Somewhat better was the kaya toast, which arrived as two large, cut toasted sandwiches on brown bread. With a warm tea drink in hand, this seemed to be an appropriate goodbye to the holiday.

Kaya toast innards

Spread thinly with the brown, eggy coconut jam, the squiggle-edged sticks of butter were an interesting addition - but not something I'd do of my own choosing (I think I'd rather it spreaded beneath the kaya).

Sweet, buttery and sending me back to younger days when mum would make me toasted sandwiches, it seemed I was ready to head home.

Two weeks away in Southeast Asia. Never enough, but better than not, I guess. Vietnam was a highlight of the overall trip, simply for the massive cultural differences that I experienced and adored. Malaysia certainly delivered on its promise of fantastic eats and has given me an even greater appreciation for its diverse cuisine. Meanwhile, Hong Kong will always be a big city to admire and fear, while Macau still means casinos to me.

Now, it's a case of saving up money (and annual leave) before I can research and prepare for the next big trip. Sooner rather than later, I hope.

Asia tripping - part XI: Penang, Malaysia

This is the eleventh of several brief posts of my recent trip to Asia: photos, food and a few thoughts.

Teh ais (left) and milo ais (right) in Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia

Flying in from the chilly Hong Kong weather to Penang was a sudden change, to say the least, in both wardrobe and eating habits. Rather than seeking out warming soups and congee, it was more a case of eating something light(-ish) so I wouldn't be impeded from diving into the hotel pool not too long after.

It was seriously warm in Georgetown, Penang with a hot humidity that hits the face as soon as one leaves their air-conditioned hotel lobby. But the rich history of the city meant whole days spent by the poolside were out of the question. Indeed, there were touristy sights to be seen.

Iced tea and Milo were cool relief after the effort of seeking out food; a mere hundred metres or so from the hotel lobby - but still a hot task.

Roti canai

Given our rather late breakfast-ing hour, it seemed the roti guy had left for the day, leaving pre-made roti canai in a warmer for anyone who may be carb-inclined outside normal meal times. Despite not being fresh off a grill, we happily tore into this with the accompanying curry dipping sauce.

Mee goreng

The mee goreng, however, came right out of the wok, steaming hot with quite a bit of sauciness in the noodles. Cooling time was even necessary for this quite large plate, with fried tofu cubes, bean sprouts and fried shallots amid the noodles.

Fresh fruit, sliced and packaged, by the street side

Right next door to breakfast was a stall of ready peeled, cut and packaged fruits of almost any tropical variety. I soon found these stalls scattered all throughout Penang - and what a fabulous way to get your five daily serves of the ripest fruits, all ready for consumption, at a staggeringly cheap price.

I had to get the lip-staining pink dragonfruit as well as some ripe, juicy sticks of pineapple. There were several bags of fruits I couldn't even identify, though the unusual rose apple popped up in many stalls.

Fort Cornwallis, Georgetown, Penang

Carb loaded, we were ready to take on Georgetown in the blaring sun, which in hindsight, explains why locals were oddly missing from the scenes.

Indeed, I don't think Fort Cornwallis - Malaysia's largest standing fort - was even open to the public (I think it was a weekend). We took a long walk around the area, in shade where we could, seeing the many sighsts and signs of Penang's colonial heritage.

City Hall, Penang

Town Hall, Penang

We also checked out a good deal of temples and the like in what the map called the 'Street of Harmony walk' - a one kilometre route where there were houses of worship from Islam, Hindu, Christian, Buddhist, Taoist and Conficianism.

Goddess of Mercy Temple, Georgetown, Penang

Gigantic incense sticks outside the Goddess of Mercy Temple, Georgetown, Penang

It was definitely busy at the Chinese-oriented Goddess of Mercy Temple, with as many people entering the temple as exiting, while the same went for incense sticks in their respective receptacles (there were numerous altars within the temple itself).

An elderly lady sitting near the entrance smiled at us as we entered with cameras around our necks and incense sticks and joss paper in hand, purchased for a few ringgit from a guy at the front. I think she was saying something about young people, and being obedient and respectful - something that's a bit lost on me, and Generation Y generally, sometimes, I think.

Aside from the usual offerings of fruit and cakes, I noticed many bottles of oil - some emptied into larger vessels at the altars - which I've never seen before as an offering in a temple.

Heading into Little India, Georgetown, Penang

Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, Georgetown, Penang

Han Jiang Ancestral Temple, Georgetown, Penang

Yap Kongsi and Ciji Temple, Georgetown, Penang

Khoo Kongsi, Georgetown, Penang

The grand, elaborate and rather well-marketed Khoo Kongsi clanhouse was built for the Khoo family clan in 1851 and also served as a temple in its later life. Now, it's a major tourist attraction featuring a museum and restored opera theatre that's still used on occasion.

Khoo Kongsi opera theatre, Georgetown, Penang

Indeed, it was the restoration of the opera theatre that won the site a UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Conservation Award. The rest of the clanhouse has obviously undergone significant restoration and conservation too, and despite its age, it stands gracefully and impressively with stunning, intricate details up close.

Khoo Kongsi, Georgetown, Penang

Khoo Kongsi, Georgetown, Penang

Khoo Kongsi, Georgetown, Penang

A side street in Georgetown, Penang

Festive decorations for sale

A long day walking through the heat of Georgetown was going to be rightfully rewarded in the best way possible - hitting the hawker stalls in the evening after a relaxing pool session. And with the amount of food we attacked, I'm sure glad the activities weren't the other way around in order.

Hawker stalls at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

Labelled as an international hawker centre and one of the recommended eating places in Penang, Red Garden Food Paradise (and night market) was a brief taxi ride from the hotel.

We descended upon shiny, colourful sign-covered stalls in a large rectangle, enclosing hundreds of plastic tables and chairs, and diners for that matter. Each stall had its own outdoor kitchen behind the facade advertising a particular cuisine or food type.

Going about ordering at each stall is a little like supermarket shopping - one of these, two of those, one of those - which is subsequently delivered to your officially numbered table, which you have to snare before you go ahead ordering.

Green mango salad at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

From the Thai cuisine stall we had a green mango salad; a delightful alternative to more commonly seen green papaya salads and perhaps a little sweeter for its mango feature. Sour, sweet with just a touch of chilli heat, we scoffed this salad with ease given it was really the ideal kind of food for Penang's balmy temperatures.

Bak kut teh at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

Not quite so appropriate for the climate was something I'd been meaning to try for ages - Malaysia's famous bak kut teh; literally pork rib tea. Except this version had all sorts of piggy bits and not just pork ribs, served with cooled Chinese fried dough sticks, or yau tiao.

Floating about were leafy vegetables and mushrooms, but the headily strong herbal broth had to be the main feature. Subtle sweet undertones lifted the rather medicinal brew, but not quite enough for me to really enjoy it, especially in the sultry warmth of the night.

Grilled chicken at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

Every specimen of grilled chicken I'd spotted throughout the hawker stalls in Malaysia was ridiculously glossy and tempting every time.

Cooked over hot coals and usually with the option of the chicken maryland or wings, these mouthwatering pieces of chicken somehow, magically, remained moist and tender everytime, with a sweet and crispy armour of brown skin. Oh, to have chicken like that at home.

Ikan pari bakar (grilled stingray) at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

Only recently introduced to stingray, this was an exemplary rendition of the dish - this one a portion of a larger fish, grilled to perfection in banana leaf with spices and served with a tart chilli dipping sauce of sorts.

The stingray is an easy seafood to eat, with just a main central skeleton of bones and generally large bones to eat around.

Sate chicken and beef skewers at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

Satay sticks had become a standard order whenever we hit the hawker stalls; this time a combination of petite beef and chicken ones served with a huge dish of nutty satay sauce, and chunks of soothing cucumber and not-so-soothing raw onion.

I think I remember the beef being a little tough while the chicken was the stuff of daydreams.

Post meal carnage (and Carlsberg beer)

Post meal demolishing session, there was an extremely necessary lull as we slowly emptied the large bottles of Carlsberg beer.

The lull pretty much lasted as long as each pause between contestants of the singing competition, which was apparently the semi finals.

Singing competition at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

There were several singers ranging from pop to classic, in English, Malaysian and Mandarin, each singing two songs. We didn't stay for everyone's two cents though.

Takeaway ice cendol at Red Garden Food Paradise, Penang

We had also managed to order dessert to take away, knowing full well that we couldn't possibly have another mouthful there and then. But I certainly didn't expect the convenient packaging - actually my first food in a bag as such.

There were red beans swimming with the green pandan-flavoured cendol noodles at the bottom and presumably a good helping of gula melaka palm sugar syrup and an even more generous helping of shaved ice to top it all off.

The bag was a little messy back at the hotel, spooning it into the room provided mugs and tumblers, and the overall dessert not quite as good as I'd wanted, but much fun anyway.

Just a little bit more Asia tripping to come in Penang.