All seediness and insinuations aside, Roxanne is definitely a place to stop in at and check out. It’s a place I’d passed many a time over my years of traipsing around Glebe; never quite making it into the deep, red interior. The other thing that was a hurdle was the menu – it isn’t this way or that. It could be called modern or fusion, but I never really knew what it was, and I’m not sure that I do now.
|Cocktail from Roxanne, Glebe Point Road, Glebe|
There were a few small tables and a large group in already as we entered, but we landed the drafty table that got the chilly breeze from the door every time someone annoyingly left it ajar. To warm up, drinks were ordered from the brief Aussie-centric wine list and even a cocktail a la Charlotte and Miranda. The well priced house chardonnay turns out expectedly unlike a chardonnay at all; very pleasant and kind of like a subtle sauvignon blanc.
To the menu, it’s a serious worldly mish-mash of items, and quite a lot at that. We could have ventured both European and various types of Asian on the very same menu, but quite not on the same plate. And then there were specials. So much to consider while simultaneously trying to throw out preconceptions that a meal should follow one style or cuisine; although having grown up in a multicultural fashion, the latter isn’t too hard.
|Entree special: Semolina coated cuttlefish|
|Seafood steamed dumplings with home made char grilled tomato chutney|
The wrappers have a texture somewhat like al dente and are filled with a coarse mince of not particularly discernable seafood bits (though I think I got a chunk of a prawn) and vegetables. It had a lacklustre flavour on its lonesome, helped only slightly by the side of sweet grilled tomato chutney.
|Wedges with sweet chilli sauce and sour cream|
The entrées aren’t the most auspicious start, but the pleasant surprises were to come in the mains. Again, it may have been the managed expectations, but credit to Roxanne, maybe it was just them.
|Moroccan lamb cutlets with triple mash, sauteed spinach on jus sauce|
The lamb was cooked to a perfectly tender and juicy medium (though I think it was supposed to be medium-rare), and was satisfying down to the bone. Along with the just sauce over the cutlets, there was a raita-like youghurt sauce on the side, which always creates joy with Morrocan style lamb.
|King prawn and scallop risotto with slow raosted tomato and spicy Napoli sauce|
|Cajun style seafood hotpot with king prawn, row on scallops, squid and fish dipped into napolitana sauce served with rice|
|Grilled lamb backstrap with triple mash, horseradish relish and wild berry port sauce|
While this beautiful cut of meat is impeccably tender, it doesn't quite match the big flavour of the cutlet with bone made for sucking clean. Greenery on this plate are some plain green beans and the seed-y wild berry sauce verges on too sweet for my tastes.
There was a limited dessert menu on offer with more interesting combinations - which seems to be Roxanne's schtick - but we decide to move on. I wouldn't have expected it, but I'm keen to return to try the other corners of the world on their menu I didn't have on this visit. So put on the red light and stop - Roxanne.