Singapore Takeout stops over in Sydney

I've never really done a proper stopover with international travel (or does five hours in a Dubai airport hotel count?). I mean the type where you spend a day or two in a different country or city en route to your intended destination.

The Singapore Takeout mobile pop-up kitchen at Campbells Cove, The Rocks, Sydney

But the pop up kitchen of Singapore Takeout - an initiative of International Enterprise Singapore, Singapore Tourism Board, and SPRING Singapore - certainly has done; stopping over in Sydney after its global tour to New York, Delhi, London, Paris, Moscow, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Dubai. I'm just a little jealous of the mobile, converted shipping container.

The Singapore Takeout setup in Campbells Cove

Last week, Singapore Takeout landed in The Rocks' Campbells Cove for three days, showcasing the fine and modern fare of the island nation to groups of media, industry, bloggers and a select group of winners from a Facebook competition. We started off with Tiger beers, T'Gallant 'Juliet' pinot noir and (yet another Marlborough) Matua Valley sauvignon blanc.

They also showed their latest Australia-specific tourism advertising campaign which tells Aussies to "Get lost, lah" in Singapore.

Singapore has to be the ultimate Asian melting pot for food, with its food identity more a combination of influences ranging from Chinese, Malaysian, Indonesian and Indian. But in a way, it does have an identity, at least one that's more definitive than Australian cuisine.

Ignatius Chan of Iggy's in Singapore

In Sydney, Singapore Takeout was represented by Iggy's, one of Singapore's most revered fine dining restaurants which ranked 27th in The San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2011 and first in The Miele Guide 2011/2012 Asia’s Top 20 restaurant.

Humble owner and an accomplished sommelier (and good mate of Tetsuya Wakuda) Ignatius Chan and the team from his eponymous Iggy’s were on hand to chat about the dynamic Singaporean dining environment and teach us a thing or two about his local cuisine.

For the record, he's a huge fan of Australia's seasonal produce, much of which featured in the evening's dinner, and thinks we're pretty lucky when it comes to accessing such a gorgeous variety of ingredients.

Iggy's head chef Akmal Anuar

After introductions, Iggy's head chef Akmal Anuar took us through a brief video about otak otak, which tops my list of favourite Malaysian street food. He then talked us through what would be our amuse bouche for the night - the simple, traditional meal of nasi lemak.

But this was no banana leaf-wrapped affair - this was Iggy's modern take on tradition, which might irk some locals, but I thought was quite thrilling despite the finicky intricacies. To start, the otak otak fish mousse is snapper in a Thermomix, which ends up white as spices are not blended with it for the typical curry colours.

Next, there's a sauce of many, many spices - as if to add it back to the otak otak. Then, the rice is a combination of coconut rice, as per tradition, and deep fried white rice and wild rice, in addition to their version of ikan bilis with another not-anchovy tiny fish.

The finishing touch is a foam of a specific turmeric leaf that was 'brought' in from Singapore. Chan emphasises that the foam is not a trend-driven addition, but really just a way of making a very light addition of a strong flavour.

Nasi lemak - Iggy's style

And the end product is rather impressive. With perfect presentation in a double-walled glass, the spice fragrances are addictive and the textures even more so. The foam adds plenty to the multi-textured rices and tiny fried fish, while the otak otak is as smooth as any steamed custard or pudding, with only a light fishy flavour.

Satisfying as the flavours were, I really could have eaten at least another five of the small glasses of nasi lemak. This is definitely one modernised dish that will stick in my mind for a long time to come.

Iggy's variation of sushi

We moved on to yet another revolutionary approach on tradition, with Iggy's take on sushi. Looking a lot like normal nigiri sushi of tuna and kingfish, the surprise was the base which was not a ball of seasoned rice but rather, a meringue made of soy, which also eliminated the need for a dip in soy sauce.

Iggy's variation of sushi

There was a definite sweetness in the meringue, but of the savoury soy version, while the crunch of the meringue base contrasted sharply with the soft pieces of raw fish. I wonder what the Japanese would think!

Cold cappellini

Next was a cold cappellini dish inspired by the very Singaporean (and Malaysian) Chinese New Year dish of yu sheng. Increasingly popular in Hong Kong and parts of China, this is traditionally a dish of raw fish and vegetables that's tossed for prosperity during Chinese New Year feasting and celebrations.

Fish in the cold cappellini dish

Iggy's version of yu sheng featured ice cold cappellini, aided by ice chips that crunched in the mouth, seasoned with seasame oil, my now-favourite citrus fruit yuzu and horseradish jelly which was barely noticeable beneath the liberal helping of icy ponzu granita.

The slices of skin-on raw whiting were a little on the chewy side but manageable, especially with the fun pops of deep-fried quinoa seeds scattered atop.

Rangers Valley beef cheek featuring Bass Philip Pinot Noir

Unable to source wagyu beef cheeks for the night, our main by Iggy's was a Rangers Valley beef cheek from northern New South Wales. This was slow-cooked for 40 hours in Chan's favourite pinot noir (remember, the man knows a thing or two about wine) - Victorian Bass Phillip's Pinot Noir.

The beef cheek was gelatinously soft and fully infused with flavours of the pinot noir sauce. The simply cooked white radish, carrots and beans were all that were needed to accompany the rich beef cheek, while I thought the tiny white flower garnish was just adorable.

Kaya toast and teh tarik

There was a lot of excitement about dessert; another modern take on a popular snack and drink in Singapore and Malaysia. Kaya toast is a spread of coconut milk, egg and sugar flavoured with pandan leaf on toast that Chan recommends must have butter with it, while teh tarik is a sweet, milky tea served hot or cold and which is 'pulled' for a frothy top.

Iggy's dessert version was pretty spectacular, featuring a fluffy, spongey 'bread' doused generously with an eggy, coconut sauce. My favourite part was the teh tarik ice cream, which featured an out-of-this-world, very strong tea flavour. The crisp on top of the 'kaya toast' was also a tea-flavoured component that was a marvel beyond comprehension.

And as if feeding us with some of Singapore's most innovative food wasn't enough, we all left with two bags full of Singaporean snacks and treats, including a corn cereal drink, packet instant laksa, 3-in-1 coffee mix, ginger tea and a Tiger beer.

While I'm yet to visit or even stop over in Singapore, I know there will be plenty of eating to look forward to when I do.

Food, booze and shoes attended the Singapore Takeout dinner as a guest of the Singapore Tourism Board, with thanks to Frank PR. Check out Singapore Eats on Facebook for everything you need to know about food in Singapore.

March into Sushi Choo for merry value

It seems that there are a couple times of the year when festivals, particularly those pertaining to food, pop up like toadstools after the rain. And that's no complaint, especially when they're festivals that feature bargain meals, like March into Merivale's $33 meal deals.

Available from Monday to Friday until 5 April in specific lunch and dinner time slots, $33 will generally get you a main meal and a glass of wine or beer at one of the Merivale restaurants or pubs. The value for money seems to improve exponentially at Sushi Choo; the sushi train located beneath the Ivy complex and famous for their occasional $20 all-you-can-eat sessions.

Snapper dry miso from Sushi Choo, Ivy, George Street, Sydney

Sushi Choo's $33 meal deal entails five plates off the sushi train; a choice of a dish not on the train; a bento box of miso soup, green salad and a 'yan yan' dessert; and a glass of wine. It's quite a bit to stomach for a weekday lunch, but we managed - just.

The Babich Sauvignon Blanc ‘Organic’ from Marlborough was the obvious choice over the pinot noir for a sushi lunch. The "off the rails" choice for me was easy, though I hadn't realised that it was a sashimi dish.

The snapper, which is fast-becoming one of my favourite sashimi fishes, was artfully sprinkled with a red miso powder that was rather subtle in taste, a garlic chip and chives with a sparky yuzu dressing that made the dish quite special.

Wagyu beef skirt – “new style”

The wagyu beef skirt was seared, though still quite raw in the centre, served with a soy-based dressing that appropriately complemented the meat. The skirt steak, buttery with fat, was too chewy a cut for this approach - a more tender cut or thinner slices probably would have been ideal.

However, with five dishes off the well-populated conveyor belt, there was plenty more to eat. When the all-you-can-eat offer is in operation, the variety of plates on the train is rather limited, but on this occasion the full range of sushi rolls and nigiri were doing the rounds. We also had generous sashimi and karage chicken plates, and the following:

Soft shell crab inside out roll

With battered soft shell crab legs hanging out like a scythe, the uramaki of soft shell crab is one of my favourites on the sushi train; here with loads of tobiko flying fish roe and cucumber sticks.

Steamed gyoza

The fresh-out-of-the-steamer gyoza dumplings had clean flavours of pork and cabbage, and while I would have preferred the pan fried variety, these piping hot packages felt nice and healthy.

Aburi salmon nigiri

My lust for blowtorched aburi nigiri sushi knows no bounds, not even for a photo. This one at was so freshly torched I could almost smell the gas as I bit into the warm salmon. Fresh lemon juice over the top was a new thing for me, but it definitely enhanced the four mouthfuls.

Chocolate spring rolls 'yan yan' dessert

Some of the most perfect spring roll wrapping I've seen in some time, it was a struggle to get through three cooled, chocolate-filled spring rolls at the end.

With five plates off the train (which is about what I would normally have for lunch at sushi trains), plus the snapper, miso soup, salad and a glass of wine; the value for money of the March into Merivale deal is confirmed convincingly.

Sunshine after the rain at Taste of Sydney

It was three days of sunshine, some of it quite intense, after the Wednesday and Thursday rains that prevented the opening night of Taste of Sydney in Centennial Park. And what glorious sunshine it was that dried out the grounds and showed what a Sydney outdoor festival should be.

Taste of Sydney 2012, Centennial Park, Sydney

For the fourth year in a row, on Sunday I headed towards the white-tented city that smelt like a mouth-watering combination of char smoke and fat; appetite and plenty of dollars for Crowns (the currency of Taste) with me.

There were definitely more large stands in the middle of the park set-up, offering seating and respite from the hot sun, as well as the cute idea that was the Lilydale picnic area with entertainment from Argyle Bar.

Lengths of marshmallow at Patisse

There was also a noticeable concentration of stalls dishing out alcoholic and sweet products, and a sad lack of stalls offering cheese; something that was quite abundant in years past.

The Cho-mobile handing out loads of free Chobani Greek style yoghurt

Blood plum vanilla ripple ice pop by Pure Pops

The heat of the day called for an early icy refreshment, which we found in the 100% natural and colourful Pure Pops. The deep red of the blood plum, with a swirl of presumably vanilla ice cream towards the paddle pop stick, was refreshing yet pulpy like proper fruit.

Stretching ice cream by hand at the Booza stall

One of the most impressive sights of the day had to be the hand-stretched ice cream at the Booza stall. A labourious alternative to machine churning, this display was not actually how Booza make their petit fours and pots of ice cream, but showcased a dated art that creates ice cream of very unique texture.

Chalie & Co. stall

It wasn’t long after some nuts and za’atar tastings that we hit up the caravan/ truck-like outlet of Justin North’s Charlie & Co. While I think it was just an aesthetic style, it raises the prospect of a Charlie & Co. burger or hot dog truck of the likes we’ve never seen before.

The Dog - Mini artisan frankfurter chilli dog from Charlie & Co.

The hot dog blitzed the mini wagyu burger in the presentation stakes, so it was an easy choice. The chips were impressive – at least twice-cooked and crunchy yet still properly fluffy on the inside.

A well-bronzed hot dog bun encased a quality-tasting white meat sausage, all covered in a flurry of not-particularly-spicy chilli mix, green sauce and thin, patient zig-zags of American mustard.

Ketel One stand, hosted by Eau de Vie

We spied the Ketel One stand by the Eau de Vie team towards the back of the park set-up, decked out with shelves of bottles of Ketel One vodka and hints of the Eau de Vie aesthetic.

Yuzu Mule (left) and Bloody Mary (right) from Eau de Vie

With the slick Eau de Vie boys in action, the Yuzu Mule was my pick with the promise of a sour hit from yuzu curd along with honey, orange, ginger beer and of course, Ketel One vodka.

The Bloody Mary wasn't even on the menu and was oddly not as cold as it really should have been, but downed nonetheless.

Spencer gulf prawns, avocado, lime, chilli, royal black quinoa,
tomato, basil & coriander from Agape Restaurant

The Sustainability area of the festival had just a whiff of hippie-ness but in the case of the Sustainability Pop-Up restaurant on Sunday, Agape Restaurant smelt nothing but delicious.

With some seriously appetising and fresh looking dishes on offer, we went with the grilled Spencer Gulf prawns piled high with a salad of black quinoa grains, tomato, basil and alfalfa sprouts - a beautifully fresh plate that sang of summer.

Crispy pork belly, pickled daikon and chilli jam in a sweet roll by Longrain

Not far away, the Longrain bar was pumping tunes and cocktails to the happy masses. Definitely a contender for my favourite of the day was Martin Boetz's crispy pork bun, jam-packed with thick, succulent slices of pork with crackling. The picked vegetables were the ideal foil for the rich pork while there was also a taste of seafood in a light smearing of sauce.

Casareccia al ragu from A Tavola

I found my favourite pasta type at Eugenio Maiale's A Tavola: house made casareccia with a ragu of slow cooked veal, pork and chicken and dusted with parmesan cheese. The al dente pasta was ridiculously perfect for something served in a paper bowl in a park, but made even better with the red sauce of so much depth and sweet meatiness.

Miriam McLachlan of Sake Restaurant and Bar in the Sake Masterclass

It might have been just a touch early in our day to have been faced with  four tasting glasses of sake, but we took it in our stride as we meandered into one of the Gourmet Traveller Wine masterclasses.

It was only a few minutes into wine and sake sommelier Miriam McLachlan's talk before we were throwing around words like daiginjo (sake made from rice that's been milled down so a maximum of 50% of the grain remains) and junmai (sake made with only rice, water, yeast and koji mould; that is, without the addition of distilled alcohol).

Sake tasting glasses in the Sake Masterclass

My favourite was the Kozaemon Tokubetsu Jikagumi Origarimi which is an exclusive brew that captures the carbon dioxide from the first fermentation in the bottle.

The Kozaemon 3 Year Aged Sake is a trend-driven product that smelt like those smelly Chinese dried shitake mushrooms but tasted like a heavy chardonnay.

Prawns served with okra sambal by Flying Fish

There was a serious need for food after the unexpected generous serves of sake in the tastings. Having somewhat studied the restaurant menu before attending the festival, the prawns with okra sambal by Peter Kuruvita's Flying Fish was something I was very keen to have.

What we received was nothing like what I'd imagined, with plenty of prawn but very little okra. Indeed, I'm pretty sure I didn't manage to taste any okra in the prawn skewers I shared, though there was a enough of the orange, creamy coconut sauce for flavour.

Traditional charcoal BBQ lamb and veal kebab, smoked eggplant and
Chobani Greek yoghurt from Efendy

For the first time, Taste brought in an award for the best dish of the festival - and this was the winner, belonging to Somer Sivrioglu of Efendy. I was very keen on this version of an adana kebab, award or not, for the smoky charcoal cooked meat and soft-cooked eggplant.

And I could easily see why it was a winning dish: spicy, packed with flavours from the meat and smoke and contrasting well with the softening yoghurt and eggplant flavours.

Hiramasa kingfish ceviche from Sake Restaurant and Bar

Going to the complete other end of the food scale, Shaun Presland of Sake Restaurant and Bar's ceviche of raw kingfish slices, tomato, Spanish onion and chilli was a bowl of freshness, though it could have done with more lime juice and seasoning.

Prawn, capsicum, chilli, salsa verde pizza by Hugo's

Ever reliable pizza also made a show with at the Hugo's bar stand, and they were certainly the real deal too. The crunchy, thin bases held a generous topping of prawns, capsicum and a squiggle of salsa verde and came out fresh from the oven.

Pear cider (or perry) by Sunshack Cider

Sunshack Cider made an appearance among a surprising amount of stalls featuring cider; at least three hailing all the way from Sweden. Sunshack's pear cider is the most perfect drink on a hot and sweaty day, especially when you're watching a pig on a spit.

(Potentially disturbing image below).

Suckling pig on the spit by Four in Hand

The petrified gaze of the rotating suckling pig on the spit was almost enough to turn a few people off their pork. But Four in Hand's pig on the spit made for a great spectator sport, all the while sipping on cider and hoping that the chef slicing it might hand over a bit of crackling.

Roast suckling pig, coleslaw, onion ring and hot sauce by Four in Hand

Colin Fassnidge wasn't around but it wasn't hard to join the queue after watching the pig do a few loops. We were justly rewarded with a fair-sized plate of tender and moist meat, two crunchy and quite oily onion rings, and a strange kind of coleslaw that comprised two huge shavings of carrot.

Ragu di pollo affiumicato from Otto Ristorante

We thought we finished up with the savoury dishes on another pasta dish from Richard Ptacnik of Otto Ristorante. It was a very different ragu of smoked Lilydale chicken that had the unfortunate texture of tinned tuna, but the strong smoky flavours were actually quite impressive.

Lamb and eggplant mini burgers by the City Tattersalls Club stall

But it wasn't quite the end with the perennial free stuff on offer from the City Tattersalls Club stall. This time I managed a battered and fried prawn of some sort and a mini lamb burger, while their panna cotta certainly looked the goods, as did their cocktail samples.

Chouxmacas from Adriano Zumbo Patisserie

Dessert was no simple matter with the number of offerings from both the restaurants and the stalls. There was relatively little fanfare at Adriano Zumbo's first Taste stall, where the 'Chouxmaca' puffs proved too tempting.

The creamy filling in the choux puffs was a little lacking in the chocolate macaron shell topped one, while the pâté sable a choux would have been my favourite part of these miniature works of art.

Wild berry and chocolate flake Foxy Premium Frozen Yoghurt

Between three people, we also did the clever thing of sharing a tub of Foxy Premium Frozen Yoghurt, though there might have been a scoop of lemon cheesecake gelato later in the afternoon too.

With some cute branding and flavour names, the frozen yoghurt was a little on the icy side so that standard plastic spoons struggled, but the flavour was spot on.

Pepe Saya buttermilk and vanilla panna cotta with poached fruits from
The Montpellier Public House

The day was certainly getting on when we heard the call of "2 Crowns" for panna cotta as Matt Kemp's The Montpellier Publich House emptied its kitchen. Quite a fair crowd turned up for cheap desserts, which was a very sweet mix of unidentified poached fruit, burying some very fine vanilla panna cotta.

This was definitely the bargain of the day although I also bought my favourite Gingerbread Folk men and bunnies, free Chobani yoghurts, Sunshack Ciders, a selection of Huon salmon products, and spicy twiggy sticks from Jim's Jerky.

So it was heavy bags and stomachs that we left Taste of Sydney for another year; hot, sweaty and happy in the sunshine. See more pictures at my Facebook page (and Like me while you're there!).

Food, booze and shoes attended Taste of Sydney as a guest, with thanks to Stellar Concepts. All food and Crowns were paid for separately.