Monday, September 9, 2013

Ipoh on York - street eats

Malaysian cuisine has taken off somewhat in Sydney, although not to the extent of Thai restaurants in the past decade or Mexican joints in the past two years.

But it does mean that quick and easy mamak style (Indian Malay) street eats are now readily available in town - none more convenient for the CBD's rat racers than Ipoh on York.

Chicken satay at Ipoh on York, York Street, Sydney
In a spacious, underground location (a few doors down from new small bar The Barber Shop), Ipoh on York looks a little like a fast food chain at first glance. Brightly lit menu boards and cash registers greet diners coming down the stairs, but then so do the Malaysian/Singaporean accents of the staff.

It's all too easy to pick out the mamak favourites from the menu, pay, sit in the extensive dining area and await the delivery of your selected Malaysian dishes.

Four sticks of satay arrived in a serve of the chicken variety, smothered in a nutty, creamy satay sauce with just not much of a spice kick. Raw chunks of cucumber and Spanish onion complete the satay appetiser, which is easily lovable and hard to get wrong.

Roti canai with plain curry
The plain roti canai is my favourite style of the fluffy, grilled flat bread and it's not too bad at Ipoh on York. Not quite as thin and delicately layered as that of Mamak, the roti still has great chew and texture for mopping up the accompanying bowl of spicy curry sauce.

Hainan chicken rice
It's hard, if not impossible, to go past Hainan chicken rice when it's on offer. My favourite part of the dish is actually the chicken stock flavoured rice, which is seriously decent at Ipoh on York with a definitive ginger aroma.

The gently poached and chopped chicken was typically lukewarm and smooth in texture, served with traditional condiments of pickled green chillies, ginger and shallot sauce and fresh coriander, with sliced cucumber on the side. Meanwhile, the bowl of chicken broth was a little on the salty side but included some greens.

Wonton mee soup
Least impressive of our order was the wonton and noodle soup, where the wonton dumpling wrappers were about as soggy as could be. Probably cooked at an earlier stage and reheated for serving, the wonton were at least tastily filled, with a fair bit of greenery in the bowl atop the still al dente noodles.

A relatively cheap feed in the Sydney CBD - that's Malaysian street eats for you.

Ipoh On York on Urbanspoon

Saturday, September 7, 2013

Colombian beer Aguila launches in Australia

It's not hard to get a party started when you're offering free beer. But when it comes to what's known as Colombia's celebration beer, Aguila, launching on the Australian scene, you know it's going to be one hell of a party.

Aguila beer launch party, The Paramount Building, Brisbane Street, Surry Hills
Spanish for 'eagle' and pronounced “Ahh – gee laa”, Aguila has become available in Australia for the first time through select bars (including Opera Bar in Sydney) and other on premise venues.

The Aguila launch party crowd
Aguila has been a part of the Colombian landscape and culture for 100 years, having being first brewed in Barranquilla, Colombia in 1913.

It has a reputation for being the celebration beer in Colombia, and with its primary-coloured label (like the Colombian flag), it makes for a great party drink and decorative theme.

Aguila beer bottles
I found Aguila to be quite a light, easy-drinking beer that's not heavy on flavour. It's made using Perle and Nugget hop varieties, pale malt and rice, and has a 4.0% alcohol by volume content, making it a pretty good party beer.

Aguila beer bar
For the Sydney launch party, the rejuvenated Paramount Building in Surry Hills (opposite Longrain) was decked out in Colombian party spirit with a live Colombian band and dancers, a yellow confetti party zone, a lively and happy-to-drink-on-a-Sunday-night hospitality and media crowd, and of course, loads of Aguila beers by the bottle.

The confetti party area

Chelsea the miniature donkey outside The Paramount Building
There was even a miniature donkey named Chelsea out the front, welcoming party guests with her somewhat nervous stance and bashful fringe.

Cerveza Aguila cart

Empanadas
And responsible service calls for beer-soaking snacks, deliciously on-theme and circulating the room. There were golden-hued, hot-centred empanadas with a cornmeal casing, served with zingy and fresh salsas and chilli sauces.

Arepas
Arepas, thick discs also made of cornmeal, came with a DIY combination of toppings including Sydney's ubiquitous pulled pork, a chilli salsa, guacamole and untraditional sour cream that was so tasty in combination that noone was screaming "TexMex" in horror.

Palitos de queso - cheese sticks
Strangely enough, the battered and deep fried white cheese sticks also came with the same topping options. I love the idea of a fried stick of cheese and after a few Aguila beers*, topping the cheese sticks with salsa, guacamole and even pulled pork didn't seem like a bad idea.

The Aguila beer launch party
With Aguila coming to Australia just in time for warmer weather and party season, it's time to vive la vida Colombiana - live life Colombian!

*Food, booze and shoes supports the responsible consumption of alcohol at all times. Eat, drink and enjoy - responsibly!

Food, booze and shoes attended the Aguila launch party and received samples with thanks to Liquid Ideas.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

The Bridge Room brings Taubmans colours, themes and textures to life

I love the emotions and psychology behind colours – in nature, in interiors and in food. I don't necessarily believe that I eat smaller portion sizes on blue plates, but there is something in the way a colourful dish is more uplifting than brown-on-brown sludge.

Taubmans Colour Look Books collaboration with The Bridge Room, Bridge Street, Sydney
(Image courtesy of DEC PR and Taubmans)
Texture also plays an important role in eating, as it does in the world of design and interiors, which is probably why the launch of Australian paint brand Taubmans' new Colour Look Books was held at two-hatted The Bridge Room in Sydney's CBD last week.

Shaynna Blaze for the Taubmans Colour Look Books launch(Image courtesy of DEC PR)
Fusing the worlds of food, colour and design, The Bridge Room chef and co-owner Ross Lusted – who last night was crowned Chef of the Year at the SMH Good Food Awards – was commissioned to create a bespoke menu to match the colours and styles of the images in Taubmans' Colour Look Books.

The five new look books are available at Bunnings and were curated by interior decorator, and Taubmans brand ambassador and creative colour director, Shaynna Blaze – who you might have seen on Selling Houses Australia or The Block on television.

Taubmans Colour Look Books(Image courtesy of DEC PR)
The Colour Look Books encourage people to take inspiration from the world around them to create colour palettes and interiors, with each look book providing interior decorating ideas, compatible colour palettes and styling suggestions.

There's 'Flora's Canvas' inspired by the naturally occurring colours of the botanical world; 'Birds of a Feather' that celebrates the colour of Australian native birds, and their habitats, textures and environment; and 'Imagination' featuring looks inspired by whimsical childhood imaginations and freedom, while there's also an Exteriors Look Book.

The Bridge Room chef and co-owner Ross Lusted
(Image courtesy of DEC PR)
The Bridge Room does not normally offer a degustation menu but in this five-course collaboration chef Lusted used some existing components from the two-year-old restaurant's menu while other, more tricky aspects were created purely for the event.

While the concept of bringing interior décor to life via food might have seemed a stretch, it was most impressive to see how well Lusted’s dishes matched Blaze’s Look Book styles.

The Bridge Room recreations of Taubmans Colour Look Book styles
(Image courtesy of DEC PR and Taubmans)
Lusted admitted that colour is one of the least important aspects in his cooking, to laughter in the room and perhaps to some horror for those working on the Colour Look Books. But he said, "Inspiration for what I do as a chef is everywhere, and I love the idea of drawing inspiration from one discipline and recreating it in another."

Lusted has one of the smallest two-hatted restaurants in town with 60 seats. He's in the restaurant's small kitchen every day, with an almost daily-changing menu featuring a very strong focus on seasonal ingredients, many sourced from a Windsor farm.

His food reminds me a lot of Quay and chef (and Lusted's good mate) Peter Gilmore's nature-inspired approach. It makes some sense then, that Lusted has partnered with the Fink Group (which owns and manages Quay and Otto Ristorante) for The Bridge Room.

Tables settings at The Bridge Room
(Image courtesy of DEC PR) 
Lusted has had a great year and indeed, a great few weeks. He won Chef of the Year at last night's SMH Good Food Awards and The Bridge Room was nominated for Restaurant of the Year. The restaurant retained its two hats, but is now also at the same hatted level as the likes of Marque, est and Tetsuya's.

It won both the Hottest Restaurant and Hottest Chef of the Year in The Australian's national Hot 50 Restaurants Awards this year, and ranked 14th in the national 2013 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards.

Lusted is pretty well content with his two hats, especially having not cooked in a commercial kitchen for a long time prior to The Bridge Room, but working for the global Aman Resorts and living in southeast Asia and India.

Now, he seems to revel in the fact that he gets a lot of local CBD residents and tourists in for lunch and dinner, and not just the corporate wining and dining crowd. As a former chef at Rockpool, he's also encouraged by Neil Perry's three-hatted restaurant's impending move to Bridge Street from its current George Street, The Rocks home. Lusted shares that there are now no vacancies for restaurants on Bridge Street despite high demand.

Table settings for the Taubmans Colour Look Books launch
(Images courtesy of DEC PR)
The Taubmans Colour Look Book inspired degustation took over the entire restaurant with a champagne-sipping crowd and, odd as it seems, had table centrepieces of Taubmans Endure paint tins, succulent plants and adorably functional, thick grey felt placemats.

Tea soaked quail eggs, nest of celeriac, black salt, lardo, ash dressing, candied chilli threads
After a bubbles and seriously good sourdough bread with butter, the first dish of the degustation was created from the 'Radiant Wren' style from the 'Birds of a Feather' Look Book. It referenced the Fairy Wren with grey-brown tones of its habitat and a touch of blue influenced by the Dinkum Blue paint colour.

This was one of the toughest assignments for Lusted who enlisted the help of blue Curaçao in lightly dying the surface of the two quail's eggs. The nest of celeriac threads, topped with candied red chilli threads, formed the Fairy Wren’s nest which in life is built of grass, twigs and even hessian threads.

With one egg in the nest, the other was wrapped delicately in lardo, swaddled by the luscious cured pork back fat which was easily my favourite part of the dish. The black feather stencil of salt and powdered coconut ash acted as dramatic seasoning for the eggs, while the adorably plated dish was matched to a 2011 Helm Riesling.

A summer salad of wood smoked sheep’s milk curd, golden beetroot, sorrel blossoms, lemon butter, celery salt
The second course of the night took inspiration from a tropical getaway in the 'Tropical Dew' styling of the 'Flora's Canvas' Look Book with relaxing green tones of the relaxing Make Believe paint colour.

I could see the cane chair typical of holidays in the tropics, cleverly created out of a crunchy gathering of deep fried potato strings, while yellow sorrel blossoms were the fitting tropical flower print. Golden beetroot, enveloping lightly smoked sheep's milk curd, added more tropical colour along with the lemon butter which added to the sorrel's summery citrus notes.

With such a myriad of flavours on each plate, I wouldn't envy the sommelier's task, but this was matched with an intriguing Loire Valley 2011 Domaine de La Louvetrie Muscadet.

Saffron spiced potato, sweet peppers in their juice, artichoke petals, dried olive, cucumber
The 'Imagination' Look Book inspired the third dish, specifically the 'Story Time' look which features a neat array of colourful children's toys, including blocks, books and soft toys.

Another dish pleasantly vegetarian, we didn't need too much imagination to see the toy blocks and balls. Saffron-yellowed potato blocks and balls, of the Rubber Duckie paint colour, were piled up with cucumber and tomato spheres, as well as red capsicum, heirloom carrots and artichoke leaves.

While the ball shapes were a little challenging to stab with a fork, it may well have been that the matching 2010 Kate Hill Pinot Noir doing its thing.

Ash grilled duck, Jerusalem artichoke, prunes in Banyuls, potato horns, truffle
The main dish was easily the most amazing duck dish I've ever had. It was inspired by the 'Grand Owl' in the 'Birds of a Feather' Look Book, with white and neutral colours of creamy Jerusalem artichoke puree and radish representing feathered layers of the bird.

The incredibly thin and crisp potato horn shapes were inspired by the Grand Owl's surroundings, with the circular thins of truffle perhaps being luxuriously tasty eyes. Meanwhile, the slices of duck breast were finished on The Bridge Room's robata grill, infusing a soft smokiness into the caramelised skin and perfectly fatty meat, cut in richness by the Banyuls fortified wine poached prunes.

The matched 2011 Phillip Shaw The Idiot Shiraz had the big flavours to match the sumptuous duck which alone made the night for me.

Violet meringue, blueberry paint, white chocolate yoghurt, raspberry powder, pistachio, crystalised violets
Out of the looks that Lusted chose to recreate, the nanna chic 'Hydrangea Musing' look from the 'Flora's Canvas' Look Book was probably my favourite, helped by the simply amazing dessert creation.

The Wild Violet paint colour burst onto the plate via crisp-surfaced violet meringues, blueberry "paint" and crystallised violet petals, while the Fizzy Lime paint colour and crumbled pistachios represented leafy foliage.

The raspberry powdered meringues could have represented that hydrangeas do indeed come in pink, while the pools of white chocolate yoghurt left me speechless – the flavour pairing was so spot on with the most perfect balance of sweetness and tartness, I wondered why I hadn't tasted the combination before.

It helped that dessert was served with the ridiculously drinkable 2012 Massolino Moscato D’Asti from Piemonte, Italy, which was the sparkling, lightly floral style of dessert wine I like.

Five courses later I was truly inspired. The collaborative dinner shone with Lusted's knowledge, skills and imaginative flair bringing to life five very creative and colourful looks by Blaze in the Taubmans Colour Look Books. Congratulations to chef Lusted on a fantastic dinner and what's sure to be an amazing year ahead.

Taubmans has also relaunched Taubmans Endure Interior and Exteriors with a Lifetime Guarantee and new packaging designed by Blaze.

Food, booze and shoes attended the Taubmans Colour Look Book launch at The Bridge Room with thanks to DEC PR.

The Bridge Room on Urbanspoon

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