|Biota's garden cabbage patch, Biota Dining, Kangaloon Road, Bowral|
|Biota's resident geese and ducks|
With just the right amounts of smoke, salt, fishiness and chew, the jerky – eaten with the fingers – was something I would want to buy in bulk bags and consume en masse – just divine.
|House baked bread and butter|
|Cucumber, native lime, oysters, bronze fennel|
Foraged bronze fennel fronds joined the plate with an airy foam of, I think, oyster cream for an overall clean, green flavour in what was a subtly-flavoured but impactful course to start, matched with the fruity, local Tertini riesling.
|Chickpea shoots, served at the table|
|Egg yolk, cooked curds, rye, chickpea|
Crunchy, butter-cooked rye crumbs added texture while the egg-on-egg encounter of bottarga cured mullet roe shavings contributed the perfect balance of saltiness and a hint of the sea.
Lightly garnished by yours truly with the intriguingly-flavoured chickpea sprouts, the entire dish came together impressively – definitely a dish that was greater in its whole than the sum of its parts.
This was served with the 5 Maddens Lane sauvignon blanc which had been pleasantly oaked for five months to dull the tropical flavours of the grape.
|Lamb breast, dried lactose, young oats, sorrel|
Young sprigs of sorrel and puffed oats decorated the arrangement which was set on something milky and curd-like that was rather unmemorable, served with the also local Pulpit Rock chardonnay.
|Duck, pine, cauliflower, pear, white raisins|
Topped with impossibly thinly-shaved cauliflower and what I think was crisp pear skin, the dish was garnished with pine needles which added theatre although were a little difficult to eat. This dish seemed somewhat autumnal to me but had echoes of my experience at Marque many years ago.
|Liquid nitrogen mixed with meringue|
Liquid nitrogen was added and mixed with an egg white mixture with rose petals that formed a frozen meringue served atop the rest of the dessert; its cold steam drawing looks from around the room every time it was served.
|Mum's roses: stonefruit sorbet, rose meringue, peach gel|
|Mum's roses: stonefruit sorbet, rose meringue peach gel|
We also had a nosy peek at the huge kitchen and equally spacious bar area where diners can drink and eat from a separate bar menu. The Biota Dining space actually huge and with the new, added luxury of being able to stroll over to the adjoining Biota Rooms accommodation to sleep the off the meal and matching wines.
And as for Bowral in November 2013, it sure was a special place and time.